[Hide Comment] great 5.8 lead for a beginner at this grade -- oodles of bolts! Oct 18, 2009

[Hide Comment] oodles+ I brought up 14 qd's and used them all plus my anchors at the top. Great beginner lead climb and the view at the top completes it. Everything at O-Zone has a great view at the top. Jun 8, 2010

[Hide Comment] Definitely requires the FULL 60m rope if not more. If you have chopped either ends, don't expect to make it down to the ground. Like the others said, great route to learn on since it has soooo many bolts. May 14, 2014

[Hide Comment] This was one of my first few outdoor leads, and am grateful to my friends for the suggestion. The closely spaced bolts make the route feel safer and the falls are relatively clean.

I might not necessarily suggest this as someone's very first outdoor lead, but maybe more like after they have just a handful or so under their belt. It's really a great climb!

Note: 70m rope is useful. 60m rope might be cutting it a bit short. Jun 29, 2015

[Hide Comment] I love this route. It has a bit of everything and lots of bolts. I don't know why people complain about all the bolts. (eyesore maybe?) If you don't want to clip them all, skip some. BEAUTIFUL view! Aug 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] Babies first lead climb. Nice warm up route. Oct 16, 2015

[Hide Comment] 13 bolts and mussy hooks on the anchors. Aug 13, 2018

[Hide Comment] Oodles of bolts yes, but there is a fairly heady move above a certain ledge hit if you fall about halfway up. Jun 7, 2019

[Hide Comment] Reading the comments the most common description is great route for a new leader. Yet at the ledge with the rap anchors there is a very hard crimp section which is well into 5.10 territory. Certainly not much easier than gopher rated 11.b just to the left. Is the route intending you to move left climb the boulder and traverse back in? By the chalk that seems a popular option. Otherwise what am I missing?

If the traverse is intended it adds a swing and ledge fall potential. May 24, 2020

[Hide Comment] I have to second Eli, I am a moderate climber and was not able to make that final move straight up the boulder/ledge to anchors, I went left and squeezed between tree and rock face, awkward and unaesthetic with major pendulum potential, thought maybe I missed something... Jun 1, 2020

[Hide Comment] Other people may remember better than me, but IIRC there are 3 options: 1) scramble far to the left through brush and dirt; 2) mantle the left of the final ledge; 3) mantle the right of the ledge. #1 starts easy but gets sketchy in the dirt and brush. You can get around lower cruxes by traversing but this isn't one of those. #2 is the standard route. It's challenging but not bad if you commit. *Unlike* similar moves lower down, I think you're pretty protected from hitting a ledge. #3 is more of a 5.10 move but safe enough with a decent belay. Jun 2, 2020

[Hide Comment] Cool route, sustained. Very nicely bolted, skipped one in fact. Some of the moves have variations that are probably above 5.8. But take your pick! Nice route either way. Use a 70m if you plan to do it in one go. I brought 16 draws, I think I used 14. Sep 30, 2020

[Hide Comment] No need for a 70m rope. A 60m will get you down just fine.

Chad Sep 30, 2020

[Hide Comment] Fun route, but not a forgiving choice for a new 5-8 leader. In the middle you traverse hard left, then climb above a large ledge to eventually reach out right to clip the next bolt (it's at least 5-10 if you try to go straight up between bolts) You'll obviously deck if you blow the sequence. Getting to the anchor is also awkward - harder than 5-8 if staying right of the bolt, but a pendulum fall if you somehow fall (or slip on the pine needles or dirt) exiting left of the bolt. Apr 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] Fun route with cool moves, but from personal experience can say that blowing the mantle at the top is very doable. Climbed this on a dry day in winter, but the top was still a bit damp and covered in pine needles & dirt. Threw left foot up on the large, but slope-y rail to the left of the final bolt and it popped as I rocked up to the anchor. I couldn't catch myself and took the whip, stopping at the bolt just above the second ledge... about 4 bolts down, I think. A bit more slack, or more rope stretch and that can be a bad one.

I do like the route, though.. I think it's pretty thoughtful, and overall protects well above the lower ledges.

• Beta spoiler*

Clipping the last bolt then going a bit right up the arete until you can reach the final ledge with your hands and move your feet over on smaller edges is pretty easy. There are some really positive holds to the right to get to the final ledge. From there, you can reach up and grab a higher edge that is a bit more slope-y and can be damp/dirty, toss the left foot on above mentioned rail, and stand up pretty easily. It's probably not harder than 5.8+, but it is heady, the holds can be dirty, and the fall potential is definitely there. Going left to the tree works, but I found that equally as scary and didn't like it one bit when I did it. Going up on the right side completely would leave you in a really weird place to access the anchors. I think straight up is safest and easiest in the end. Feb 11, 2022

[Hide Comment] All lead and anchor bolts replaced with SS 1/2 inch bolts from the ASCA. New Mussy hooks added as well. Nov 26, 2023

[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 7/4 for the first time. Definitely got my adrenaline up.

Well bolted through the first half, but felt runout with all the ledges after that. Definitely would deck if you fell.

There were two tricky spots for me. One was about 3/4 of the way up, there’s a massive ledge (4’) that leads into a very thin face with a bolt in the middle of it. Falling here is a deck. I went way left onto a dirty ledge and reached right to get the clip before climbing the face.

The second was getting to the anchor. I went far right up the arete with some nice jugs, clipped left, traversed a ledge to the left and then mantles up to the anchors with a high left foot. I’m tall but it felt pretty doable once I committed Jul 6, 2024