Crystal Method
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m) |
FA: | Bryan Beavers, '05 |
Page Views: | 1,807 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | beavs on May 15, 2009 |
Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
Not your typical clip-up to say the least, and possibly deserving of an "R" rating. There is potential for big falls in places, but I wouldn't say it's super dangerous. There is just enough protection and falls should generally be clean air (on my 1st attempt leading it a hold broke when I was topping out and I sailed pretty far without ever hitting the wall - it wouldn't have been so bad except that then I had to lead it again!).
This 175' pitch goes straight to the top of the wall with very little wandering. The crux is immediately after the 1st bolt (about 30' up where the seam disappears) and gradually eases as the seam reappears. Gear can be found just a few feet above the bolt, but it's tricky to place and the stances are insecure - just punching it to the easier ground was the ticket for me. There is another slightly easier crux up high as you slab your way through the last couple of bolts. It is easy to climb right to the 1st anchor on Fantastic Voyage to split the route into 2 pitches or avoid the top half if desired.
This 175' pitch goes straight to the top of the wall with very little wandering. The crux is immediately after the 1st bolt (about 30' up where the seam disappears) and gradually eases as the seam reappears. Gear can be found just a few feet above the bolt, but it's tricky to place and the stances are insecure - just punching it to the easier ground was the ticket for me. There is another slightly easier crux up high as you slab your way through the last couple of bolts. It is easy to climb right to the 1st anchor on Fantastic Voyage to split the route into 2 pitches or avoid the top half if desired.
Location
Left of Balaam and right of Silver Girl. 1st bolt is visible from the ground if you look closely (about 30' up with a reddish-colored camo hanger). 2 60m ropes required to rap from the top.
Protection
A total of 5 bolts and pro up to about 2". The gear is basically all thin so bring a good assortment of nuts & TCUs. The top third of the route has no pro other than the widely spaced bolts. Shares a chain anchor at the top of the wall with Fantastic Voyage (the chains are painted black, look to the right as you top out).
My opinion is that enough natural pro can be found on this line to make it a mixed route. I took a minimalist approach with the bolts and tried to place just enough to make it sane to lead. I'm sure some would disagree with this approach, so let the thread begin.
My opinion is that enough natural pro can be found on this line to make it a mixed route. I took a minimalist approach with the bolts and tried to place just enough to make it sane to lead. I'm sure some would disagree with this approach, so let the thread begin.
Photos
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