Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Routes in The Schoolyard
|Coffin Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Deja Vu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dunce's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Honcho Imposter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Improbable Prose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Multiple Choice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pop Quiz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Return of the Jedi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|School of Rock T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Schoolyard Bully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Short Subject T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sunday School T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft|
|FA:||Tony Thaler, DJ Norland, Carrie Bonneau and Josh Audrey. April 2009|
|Page Views:||2,578 total, 24/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Klymer on Apr 22, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a very striking straight-in crack that brings full value for the grade. It begins with perfect steep hand jams then progressively becomes wider until you can finally (mercifully) squeeze your body in near the top. Expect a lot of sustained, clean offwidth climbing in between. Unfortunately, the location will likely keep this route from becoming the classic it could be if it were more accessible.
LocationThis route sits above and around the corner to the right from Coffin Corner. It is an unmistakable crack in a clean face and can be seen clearly on the approach to The Schoolyard. We approached by climbing 2 as-of-yet nameless but fun pitches, but there may be an easier way. It's worth exploring!
To approach: 20' to the right of Return of the Jedi is a wide crack in a corner. Climb this until you can step right past some very loose rock to a wider crack/chimney. Continue up to a big comfy ledge. 120' 5.8. From the ledge, scramble around the big bush on the left and continue up two parallel cracks (FUN). Exit right onto another big ledge with boulders. 80' 5.7. From this ledge, scramble around the corner to the right and up a couple bushy steps to the base of the obvious beautiful crack. 150' 4th class.
Decent: Scramble and down climb the gully to the right until forced to rappel. It's 80' off of a chockstone back to the base of the crack. Scramble back down to the top of the approach pitches and do one 200' rappel back to the ground. This rappel anchor needs some work.