Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Tony Thaler, DJ Norland, Carrie Bonneau and Josh Audrey. April 2009
Page Views: 3,168 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jim Klymer on Apr 22, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a very striking straight-in crack that brings full value for the grade. It begins with perfect steep hand jams then progressively becomes wider until you can finally (mercifully) squeeze your body in near the top. Expect a lot of sustained, clean offwidth climbing in between. Unfortunately, the location will likely keep this route from becoming the classic it could be if it were more accessible.

Location

This route sits above and around the corner to the right from Coffin Corner. It is an unmistakable crack in a clean face and can be seen clearly on the approach to The Schoolyard. We approached by climbing 2 as-of-yet nameless but fun pitches, but there may be an easier way. It's worth exploring!

To approach: 20' to the right of Return of the Jedi is a wide crack in a corner. Climb this until you can step right past some very loose rock to a wider crack/chimney. Continue up to a big comfy ledge. 120' 5.8. From the ledge, scramble around the big bush on the left and continue up two parallel cracks (FUN). Exit right onto another big ledge with boulders. 80' 5.7. From this ledge, scramble around the corner to the right and up a couple bushy steps to the base of the obvious beautiful crack. 150' 4th class.

Decent: Scramble and down climb the gully to the right until forced to rappel. It's 80' off of a chockstone back to the base of the crack. Scramble back down to the top of the approach pitches and do one 200' rappel back to the ground. This rappel anchor needs some work.

Protection

Bring the biggest cams you can find. A few small cams are optional for mental well-being near the top. Be prepared to run it out.

Photos