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Routes in Illusions Area

Bulge, The V6 7A
Freaney's Fin V1 5
Freaney's Fright V2 5+ PG13
Illusions of Paradise V6 7A
Natural Highs Come a Whole Lot Cheaper V3 6A X
Two tickets to paradise V8- 7B
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Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Midwest Hardcore
Page Views: 114 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Apr 17, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Cruxy start, then up the arete.

Location [Suggest Change]

Boulder of Clarity, on the way to Illusions of Paradise. Route starts on right hand jug and left hand on the arete. The face of this boulder looks heinous with a terrible landing. The landing for this route is good!

Protection [Suggest Change]

Three pads maybe more....unless you're Midwest Hardcore :)

Photos

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
HAHA. I certainly approve of the name... it looks scary. Apr 17, 2009
Tradiban  
 
We thought you would! Tall, but the landing is good with enough pads. I think the real scare fest is the face to the right....maybe later.... Apr 18, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
i think im gonna hop on the face to the right and try a few moves next weekend if it's dry. it needs some cleaning and cojones, but it will go for sure Apr 25, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Yes, the face to the right will go, and it does need some cleaning but I suggest you think real FUCKING hard about what will happen if you peel off, because it won't be pretty. It gave me a real pause and I don't think anyone could call me a pussy around here, except Huston.
I suggest using a TR first.
Based on your brief profile for MP, it would seem you might be qualified for the job, if so and you feel "safe" on this thing, I say take it down! Apr 26, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
This is Paul from the gym. Yes, TR for sure until I can do it in my sleep. There's not too much you can do about pads (besides cover the rock) cause the landing is just that bad so you really have to commit. I think I have the balls to do it though. That is once it's cleaned and chalked up a bit. Apr 26, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Ok Paul, now knowing that it's you I suggest building your resume on established highballs before taking on a death route.
If someone gets badly hurt at the Dodge the Rangers will be VERY unhappy and like I've said before access is sensitive. You could be potentially ruining it for everyone.
Vinny and I agree, you will be able to pull extremely hard some day but pulling hard is only half the battle and the easier half at that. If you want to do it let us work out a route list for you, work on and send those routes, and then you can start to really impress people.
For a perspective to others reading this FF is 5 feet shorter than the face to the right and has a good landing.
Peace,
Rhoads Apr 27, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
"If you want to do it let us work out a route list for you, work on and send those routes, and then you can start to really impress people."

Paul, climbing doesn't have to be like this. Follow your psyche. If you want to do something, you don't need anyone to approve beforehand. Just be smart, be safe, and have fun. Apr 27, 2009
Well said, Jay. Be safe, but if you really want to do something just do it. Apr 27, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Just be safe Paul. I messed my ankle pretty good peeling from the top of the Backbone Ridge. Only now is it starting to feel pretty normal (6 months later), and that was a flat landing on a problem I had done before without difficulty. Apr 27, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
...with a spotter below him and everything... Apr 27, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
thanks for the ideas guys. i dont deny that i need to improve my 'resume.' this would be an ascent months down the road. Apr 27, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Hey Paul let one of us know when you guys are heading out, I would love to join you in your quest for the highballs. It's a feverish drug that keeps you coming back for more. If your stoked on something who cares if its been done before, just be smart, have fun, and have spotters and plenty of pads. Good luck man! Apr 27, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
Ok Remo. I need to meet some of you guys cause my dad gets a little burned out trying to keep up. I'm new to the area and sport (6 months in the area, 4 in the sport), but I'm hungry to improve and do some hard lines.

I agree, highballs are so addicting. My first real one was 'The Hunk' and a line on the 40 foot peabody boulder (with one pad) in Bishop a few weeks ago. I agree with safety though. If I want to live to be 16, I'll have to be careful.

I'm probably going out to the Dodge on Wednesday after school (arriving close to 4), but it's a weird time. other than that, I usually go on weekends when my dad can drive me. I also climb in Boulders monday and thursday with the team.

Thanks for all the advice, help, etc. and sorry for the unintentional autobiography, Paul


Apr 27, 2009
Tradiban  
 
I'm not trying to give him "approval" I'm trying to help develop his climbing (Paul is on our climbing team). Jay, I don't think you have seen this face, it needs serious cleaning and the landing is very bad. I'm not saying he can't do it but in 6 months of climbing I don't believe a person can develop the proper "head" for this.
I'm simply suggesting a course of action here, not demanding it. It is something to work up to and it sounds like Paul knows this.

Regarding "FA Fever" I think if someone is doing something strictly for the FA to post it on this site they are missing the point. I'm not accusing Paul of this, simply reminding him that an FA isn't everything and not worth certain unreasonable risks. Apr 27, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
I will be out there all day Wednesday, so I could meet you guys later for sure. Rhoads I was referring to Highball fever and if anyone knows what this is its you, but FAs are fun too. Apr 27, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
ok sounds good. ill look for you...im pretty sure ill recognize you. (i think i asked you if you were in climbing magazine climbing the Waimea Wall...as a side note that was Jay). anyways, just for the record, im trying to repeat as many hard routes as i can before i start doing FA's.

EDIT: My dad has a massive bike ride on wednesday so i can't make it to G-Dodge. maybe friday and definitely over the weekend though! Apr 27, 2009

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