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Routes in Illusions Area

Bulge, The V6 7A
Freaney's Fin V1 5
Freaney's Fright V2+ 5+ PG13
Illusions of Paradise V6 7A
Natural Highs Come a Whole Lot Cheaper V3 6A X
Two tickets to paradise V8 7B
Type: Boulder
FA: John Freaney
Page Views: 4,113 total, 36/month
Shared By: sweatpants on Aug 2, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

The first roof I've found at the Dodge. This thing is sssssiiiiccckkkk. Lots of tension, ok holds and poor feet. Do some crunches before you get on this thing. Start on lip side jug move into seam behind you, slaps on both sides out to pointy arete, to the top.

Location

from parking go diagnol right to cliffband and you can't miss it. It's prolly the only climbable roof you've seen in the Dodge.

Protection

pads
I've seen this done starting in back of cave squeezing block with toe hooks and not using wall on left or anything right of crack. Looked hard as hell. Apr 4, 2012
Tradiban
  V6
Tradiban  
  V6
Now that I've done it can it really be V7? Just kidding, but it didn't feel too hard, I gave it V6. Kudos to Mike L for the beta. Nov 21, 2011
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
Nice job man! I had a similar experience when i put it up i then did it a bunch of times in a row for video and stuff. so I dont know if that had to do with muscle memory or what? either way it seems that most think it is more in the 6 range and I am fine with adjusting accordingly. In fact I wish more routes were adjusted on this site to reflect the consensus. I'm psyched that you liked the problem bro. Nov 22, 2008
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
V5-6
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
V5-6
This is a great problem. Originally I was thinking v6-v7. After going back today, I would say more like v5-v6. I ran three laps in a row with out much trouble. I can only conclude 1 of 3 things: (1) The conditions were great, (2) this is my style, or (3) the grade is soft. I think its actually a combination of all three. As I said, great problem. Seems like most people were getting on it this summer when the conditions may not have been been prime. Give it another whirl while the weather is good.

I also did a start from the back of the cave. Starting at the left hand corner. Adds a couple hand and foot moves so maybe more like v6-v7. Nov 22, 2008
Brian Runnells  
  V6
Multiple knee-bar beta works really well for keeping things almost entirely static. Nov 16, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
I changed the grade to reflect the majority. I think solid 7 is a fair grade in the end. lets get out there and find some more roofs to put up! Aug 28, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6+
Finished it up this morning. Great problem. You just gotta get the feet up in the right spots. Aug 27, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-
Well, sent today-- better conditions but still hotter than stink, I still think it's hard but as far as comparison, yeah, not as hard as Sandstone Violence. I stand corrected, but again, super classic and still hard, and for me, pretty close to as many tries as S.V. to send (20-25 compared with 40-45 for SV). I am pretty happy to have gotten the coveted FA on this rig (fifth ascent haha). Aug 26, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
thanks for the shout out homes! Hopefully i'll find lots more like it! :-) Aug 24, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6+
I would like to add that this is a super fun problem, and good work to sweaty for finding it, and establishing. I to have all the moves down and just need to send it, so no send yet. I would say that this feels easier than S.V. but a totally different climb. To me it feels like V7, but what do I know. It's comparable to other V7's I've done here in WI and around the country, but easier than V8's I've done, which isn't many. Regardless, good work to anyone who is putting forth effort- Great Problem. Aug 24, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
Hey there. same beta on FA minus kneebars. lol just use the foot chip and switch feet. same difference. I felt the same way about it being similar to body karate which is graded v9. a soft 8 grade for IOP is fair because of very similar holds (i.e. good crimp, poor sloppers, slapping, heel hooks, toe hooks, feet cut to bring to different location, ect.) so by grading it lower i acnowledged that it's similar but very slightly easier. However i think 2 grades of a downgrade is unfair but thats your opinion and I can appreciate your feedback. the kneebars you used though are for the easier moves, the crux for me was holding the feet cutting, the hand foot match, and the following move with left hand to the couple different poor holds. Just my opinions for what they're worth. what other stuff did u get on besides this and S.V.? glad you enjoyed your time homie!

John Freaney (sweatpants) Aug 24, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
im trying to figure out where u found it usefull to kneebar not only once but "multiple times". I've just been going over the route in my head and I can't figure where that would have been beneficial or where I could have accomplished such a feat for that matter. perhaps I just don't think about kneebars much... Aug 24, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
Here's a link to a video of the problem. Good job on the video work Bill. word.
youtube.com/watch?v=nTX-Zn0… Aug 22, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
Here's a link to a video of the problem. Good job Bill on the video work. Enjoy Aug 22, 2008
Dobbe
V6
Dobbe  
V6
This has rad movement and is a stellar line. It fits my style so I would give it more on the 6 side put I could see maybe 7 but not 8+. Aug 19, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6+
Dobbe sent today, it was a rad send. Did it clean twice and almost a third time for the camera(yeah Dobbe!). I was spent, hopefully on Thursday. We also tried the crack alone- very cool. Vince taped up his hands and fingers, felt like Indian Creek out there. Aug 19, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
It should also be noted Bill's beta was totally different and did not cut feel. Sick. Aug 17, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
CRUSHED!!! I finally finished her off today followed by a quick second accent by my friend Bill. weeeerrrddd. Aug 17, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
sooo yet another project that i should have completed teases me and beats me up with no payoff. Got to the top of the arete and couldn't find my feet to make the last move to the jug out left. twice in a row. next wed. its going down! awsome session yesterday with everyone homeboys were climbing strong. dobbe and chris it was nice to finally meet you both. word.
sweaty Aug 14, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-
Wow, amazing problem. What a find. Instant classic. Thanks for the beta John. It will go. Aug 13, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6+
Very cool problem! Hard, but it will go. Very similar climbing as Grounded for Life, but way harder. For sure the most physical problem at the Dodge. My chest is sore from it. Aug 6, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
I will post pics ASAP. this thing is rad and really hard. Danny thought it was "easier" feeling than Full Execution. I'm not so sure. then again it was the end of the day and our first day on. Could feel easier next time. Aug 2, 2008