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Routes in Illusions Area

Bulge, The V6 7A
Freaney's Fin V1 5
Freaney's Fright V2+ 5+ PG13
Illusions of Paradise V6 7A
Natural Highs Come a Whole Lot Cheaper V3 6A X
Two tickets to paradise V8 7B
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Paul Dieterle
Page Views: 932 total, 9/month
Shared By: Paul Dieterle on Sep 8, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

I've been looking at this one for awhile now. Before I broke my wrist, actually. It was a great way to get back into the game. It's the face with the death landing. A low crux leads to a thin, really sketchy slab. The slab includes a mono, a few holds that broke multiple times while cleaning and working, and some really skimpy feet. Needs more traffic, but I'm not sure that will work out. It cleaned up to be one of my favorite problems in the Dodge. As classic as most climbs of the same grade and danger in Bishop in my opinion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_5hi7iq6Fk

Location

Boulder of Clarity...the face with the death landing to the right of Freaney's Fright

Protection

I left my pad at home on accident. But I'd bring all the pads you can, a wheel chair, and some vicodin.

Photos

Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Even though it has already been said, great job on the video editing! Looked professional :) Sep 15, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Nice video, great job. Paul your problem is like Son of Great Chimney -- starts on one arete, traverses, and finishes on the other. This in no way takes away from the experience of climbing it. The Natural High face looks pretty hard, as does the Great Chimney face. Perhaps someday someone will climb it. We'll see. Sep 15, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
 
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
 
Thanks Remo...editing tricks rock. John, I tend to agree with you the more I think about it. A direct version will undoubtedly supersede this route one day. Sep 14, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice video Paul. The editing is great and that mono shot was awesome! Sep 14, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Just watched the video. Nice send Paul.

The way Paul climbed the problem in the video, is different from his description. In my opinion, the face (slab) is still unclimbed. Paul used the right arete almost the entire way up, than traversed and used the left arete to top out on Freaney's Fright. The ascent of the face, without use of the aretes on either side, is still up for grabs. Sep 14, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
 
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
 
youtube.com/watch?v=I_5hi7i… footage of the send Sep 11, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
I was wondering if you went out to an arete Paul. Seemed much harder to me to just use the face proper, but it was also very humid out when I looked at it a while ago, so that factors in too. I think it would go without an arete but in the end if it's no fun then that defeats the purpose of being out there climbing. Since you did it first, you define the problem, and that is cool. I don't know how hard the left-left face is. Looked hard to me, harder than V4, but until you actually get on something up and close, there can be hidden holds. So I don't know. Dobbe and I talked about that face a while ago so he has looked at it too but I am pretty sure he hasn't given any serious effort. I think it's a little shorter than your problem but I might be wrong. Still kinda tall. Be safe. Sep 9, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
 
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
 
Thanks guys. I've been syked on this for awhile now and I hope it sees more ascents soon. I'd be glad to donate beta. To clarify, Natural Highs goes out to the right arete to gain the slab. The first part of the face just didn't go due to lack of feet, although I would be VERY impressed if someone tackled it. Felt as doubtful as some V10 moves in Bishop that I tried (albeit with two bomber arms). How high is this face you talk of, Chris? Also, how difficult? I feel like V5 is about my limit. V3 if the moves are left handed... But I'd be more than happy to work it. Sep 9, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
I was hoping you would do this Paul. Now, look around the corner to the left (2 corners left of Freaney's Fright, or just to the left of Freaney's Fin). That face is also unclimbed. Harder to be sure, with a better landing. Go get it! If I had more time I would have been working it. Alas life gets in the way. Sep 9, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Way to get after it! Proud send. Sep 9, 2009
Very good Paul! I applaud the hard work cleaning and head pointing. Keep it safe. Sep 8, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
 
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
 
Thanks Remo! It definitely needs more traffic, but for me it was great. The grade is kinda questionable. I'm not sure of it because one of the crux moves was lefty. Felt like V4 and took me as many tries as Get The Hell Out Of Dodge, but I kind of compensated for that. Could be as easy as V2. In any case, it was a great climb and one of my proudest moments climbing thus far Sep 8, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice work Paul! Sep 8, 2009