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Routes in Slippery Peak

Leviathan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red and the Black, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stout-Hearted Men T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Karsten Duncan, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,342 total, 13/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The main face of Slippery Peak rises above the apron slabs. This face is dominated by a huge flake feature. Leviathan follows a line generally up the right side of the flake for 5 or 6 pitches.

Go up the corner system for a pitch or so. When it becomes obvious that the corner itself will be blocked by a large roof, move right on face holds and climb to a good ledge. A short squeeze chimney then leads to easier climbing. Immediately above is the huge chimney leading to the top of the tower. This chimney is twenty or more feet deep, and flares very tight out to full-body bridging. There is not much protection, but you can choose the precise width you like the best. From the good ledge at the tower's top, follow a slanting crack up and right. When it ends, another pitch up an easy gully takes you to the summit ridge.

Descend by climbing down the easy gully to a rappel station at the top of the slanting crack. Rappel straight down the blank face, not back into the chimney. Three long rappels bring you back to the start.

Protection

Cams to 6 inches

Photos

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