Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rick Dennison, Mark Fredrick, Dan Cox - 1994
Page Views: 174 total · 100/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 25, 2019
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A sleeping classic and one of the best friction climbs in Red Rocks. The name Real Domestic Chickens is a play off of Dream of Wild Turkeys and it is every bit as good. Do this route... but bring your A-game.

P1 (150'): Begin from two white boulders leaning against the wall and climb to a high first bolt, generally aiming for the right edge of a long, shallow roof at 70'. Pass six bolts and gear placements to a bolted anchor at a stance. If you blow clipping the first or second bolt only an attentive belay will keep you off the ground.

P2 (80)': Difficult friction climbing past two bolts leads to a bolted anchor on a good ledge.

P3 (130'): Climb past two bolts (original anchor was at the second bolt). Continue up a 50' stretch of unprotected climbing following a shallow right-facing corner that arches back to the right to a bolt below the long roof at the top of the wall. Pull the roof at a crack and belay on a good ledge at a bolted anchor.

Continue easily to the top or rap with two ropes. You might be able to get by with a single 80m but some shenanigans/down-climbing will be necessary. When rapping P3 be careful to pull the ropes way to the left - and give them a well-timed flick - or they'll get stuck in some giant stacked blocks on the right. It is easy to climb up and free them if necessary but be careful not to dislodge the blocks.

Location

This route climbs the nicest, smoothest section of Slippery Peak Apron - the large slab of rock visible from the TH deep in First Creek Canyon and immediately past the Slippery Buttress.

Protection

A dozen or so draws and slings.
2x Black, Blue, Green Aliens (or equivalents).
A set of DMM Offsets.
2x ropes or an 85m rope.

Photos