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Routes in Hold On To Your Face Wall

E-Grade Get a Real Grading System S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hungover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jim Bulger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shane In The Red Balloon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: B Martin, P Manning, S Carr - 25 Jan 93
Page Views: 49 total · 0/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Apr 2, 2009
Admins: Cameron Fraser

You & This Route

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The most prominent feature on the wall is a large left-facing dihedral with a perfect finger to wide-hands crack running up the center of it. The line is far more overhanging than it looks from the ground but the dihedral allows you to either stem or partial-chimney and make life a lot easier than it’d be if just a splitter crack. Ignimbrite isn’t the most gentle on the hands but it’s still a clean crack and worth doing if not just to get a break from the repetitious pocket-pulling at the rest of the crag.


If you can’t locate this line perhaps crack climbing just isn’t your thing.


A small rack of cams from finger to wide-hands, perhaps a few extra in the wide stuff. You can make a reach at the top and clip the anchors to the arête route to the right, but then you wouldn’t get to do the exit moves. A large tree sits at the top just begging to be anchored to while you bring up your second; an easy walk-off to the climbers left.


Christopher Zammit
Chapel Hill, NC
Christopher Zammit   Chapel Hill, NC
I used BD C4 #1, 2 #2s, a #3, a #4, and to protect the last move use a #5 if you've got it. Also, I would probably say more like a 5.10b/c rather than a 5.10d. May 13, 2018

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