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Routes in Solar Slab

Eclipse This S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
El Sol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frigga S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Helios S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Isis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solar Flare T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tava S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Up Until Sunrise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Brian Shelton, Martha Morris, Mike Heinrichs, Aug. '04
Page Views: 1,986 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Mar 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is another fun route on Solar Slab. Climb up past a pothole then a bit right and up the headwall.

Location

This is the fifth bolted route you come to on Solar Slab.

Protection

5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

drusch
5.10a
drusch  
5.10a
If this is the route immediately to the right of Tava (and I believe that it is), then it is no longer a 5.9. We lead both Icarus and Tava, Tava may have been more sustained at the grade (5.10a), but Icarus has moves on the upper middle of the climb which are harder than the moves on Tava.

As we left the park, there was a couple on Icarus who were having extreme trouble on the upper middle part of the climb, they thought it was a 5.9 and not the 10a/b that it is.

Don't get me wrong, Icarus is a great climb and well worth doing, but it's just not a 5.9 anymore. Mar 23, 2009
Jake Carroll
The Springs
  5.10a
Jake Carroll   The Springs
  5.10a
I agree this route definitely felt harder then the "5.9-" that it was listed as. May 30, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9
Good climb though harder than it looks from below. UK grade HVS 5a/b. Oct 16, 2010
Cody E
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Cody E   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Fun climb. Thin and tiny holds, but they are there. Felt 5.9 to me. Trust your feet. Feb 13, 2015
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
Way easier than Tava or Eclipse This. Bigger footholds and handholds than either.

Lots of climbing chalk on key holds - people must not read the climbing permit which says chalk is prohibited and unnecessary , since there is so much sand. Nov 9, 2015
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
The hangers on bolts one and four were loose today (they weren't when we climbed this a week ago).

I tightened them with my nut tool; however, they should probably be tightened to the proper torque....

Also, same comment from two years ago - lots of chalk on this route. People obviously don't read what they signed and agreed to with the permit.... Oct 29, 2017
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.9 PG13
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.9 PG13
This felt like a 5.9 to me, especially once I understood the route. I misread the hard right traverse this route takes around halfway up and instead went more on an angle. Once I realized that was getting me into some harder 5.10 terrain, I backed off a bit and re-routed to take the hard right traverse and then went straight up to the next bolt from there. That felt much more like 5.9. Overall, I thought the route was much easier than Tava (5.10a/b to the left of it).

I gave this a PG-13 rating, because the moves between bolts 1 and 2 are not completely secure, and if you come off before tagging B2, you'll end up close to, or possibly on, the ground. The hard right traverse was also a little sketchy. If you come off in that section, you're going to have a good pendulum on low-angle slab. Aug 3, 2018

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