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Routes in Solar Slab

Eclipse This S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
El Sol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frigga S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Helios S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Isis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solar Flare T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tava S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Up Until Sunrise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2004
Page Views: 2,932 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jon Cannon on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


76 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Smear past two bolts to the crux, a somewhat blank headwall. Sandy smearing up to a glorious hole gets you up to a nice ledge. From the ledge, clip a couple of bolts before the next difficult section: gaining the layback. Ascend small and sandy holds up to the layback. There is cool laybacking/face climbing for about 20 feet to the third challenge, moving past the laybacks onto the upper headwall.

Location

This lies on the far left end of Solar Slab.

Protection

6 (8?) clips to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

FA by Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2004.

This was the first route on Solar Slab. Named Tava, the Ute Indian word for "sun" and often given to Pikes Peak.

Watch for wasps in that good hole! Oct 17, 2006
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
This was a really fun climb.... Well worth it. The layback doesn't do you any good after a third of the way up so you have to do face climbing with occasional footholds on the corner. Fun mantle to get on top, too. Jun 27, 2008
Great climb overall! When you think you can't go further, reach higher and you find a good hand hold.

I second watchout for the WASPS! I ignored the first wasp I saw hanging in about 1/2 up in a great hand hold, but there was another great pocket hand hold higher. Once off belay on the on ground, I crushed 2 wasps mating or fighting. Sorry Gaia. I would have left them alone, but they were rolling around, getting agitated in the the slack rope coil, and I was worried about a counterattack.

Five years later, bolt #2 is STILL loose, but no worries because other bolts are solid. For those who care and go beyond, bring a wrench and thank you.

I LOVED the huge flake at top with the variety of layback crack at bottom 1/3 to foot smear at top. Nov 10, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.10b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.10b
There are actually 8 protection bolts. A clean solid gem of a slab with interesting & varied movement. Exciting & insecure friction crux past 2nd bolt getting to the small hole (big pocket). Fun friction traverse past 4th bolt to dicey slab moves past 5th bolt reaching the corner. Cool corner & an interesting exit. Jan 1, 2017
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.10a/b
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.10a/b
Very sustained, particularly through the first 3 bolts. The slab move up to the pocket above B3 would be .9 if it weren't for the slippery, sandy nature of the rock here. Given that, it felt a little harder. Maybe .10a/b. The flake at the top was super fun! The whole route is definitely easier if you're tall. Aug 3, 2018

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