Type: Sport
FA: Brad Saren, Brian Shelton, Jason Carmichael, Kit Nordeen, Mark Tjaden, August '04
Page Views: 2,224 total · 18/month
Shared By: Erik Tullberg on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

There are two nice headwalls with the crux being at the second. This has really thin face climbing, it forces you to string together your moves. Mostly feet until the crux and then be prepared for some arm exercise... very crimpy.

Location

This is the second from the left end of Solar Slab, to the right of the fabulous Solar Flare with its big, arching layback... and to the left of Tava.

Protection

7 (5?) bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. It is very well-protected in all the right places.

Photos

Have you actually climbed this one? The current rating is 12a. Jul 15, 2008
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c
Actually, yes, I have climbed it... don't agree with the 12a. In fact, I'd say 11a. There's a tough pull just before the end, but no wild moves (unless that ear shaped foothold has broken off since last I climbed it 2 months ago). Besides, I can't climb 12a :) Aug 6, 2008
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c
Bolt number 4 has the worst placement. It is right in the way of where you need to go. Cool route though. I couldn't lead climb any further anyhow. Perhaps with my new shoes? Jul 30, 2010
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a PG13
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a PG13
There are actually only 5 protection bolts. This route has an exciting runout getting to the 2nd bolt. Very difficult face & friction moves past the upper 3 bolts. It seems to have gotten harder than when I climbed it over 6 years ago. A challenging slab. Jan 1, 2017
AJ Cohen
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12
AJ Cohen   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12
Tried to work the crux at the second headwall for a few gos, had "decent" feet and was trying to figure out some hands... but after a few tries, the foot hold crumbled then got worse and worse the more I tried. My partner also did the same thing. I'd like to see what people think it's rated now. I finally resorted to pulling on the draw, which was still hard to do, and my partner wasn't able to do even that.... Also a decent crimp/sidepull at the first headwall exploded in to my face when I pulled on it, which makes that section a bit harder too. Dec 11, 2017