[Hide Comment] If this is the route immediately to the right of Tava (and I believe that it is), then it is no longer a 5.9. We lead both Icarus and Tava, Tava may have been more sustained at the grade (5.10a), but Icarus has moves on the upper middle of the climb which are harder than the moves on Tava.

As we left the park, there was a couple on Icarus who were having extreme trouble on the upper middle part of the climb, they thought it was a 5.9 and not the 10a/b that it is.

Don't get me wrong, Icarus is a great climb and well worth doing, but it's just not a 5.9 anymore. Mar 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] I agree this route definitely felt harder then the "5.9-" that it was listed as. May 30, 2009

[Hide Comment] Good climb though harder than it looks from below. UK grade HVS 5a/b. Oct 16, 2010

[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Thin and tiny holds, but they are there. Felt 5.9 to me. Trust your feet. Feb 13, 2015

[Hide Comment] Way easier than Tava or Eclipse This. Bigger footholds and handholds than either.

Lots of climbing chalk on key holds - people must not read the climbing permit which says chalk is prohibited and unnecessary , since there is so much sand. Nov 9, 2015

[Hide Comment] The hangers on bolts one and four were loose today (they weren't when we climbed this a week ago).

I tightened them with my nut tool; however, they should probably be tightened to the proper torque....

Also, same comment from two years ago - lots of chalk on this route. People obviously don't read what they signed and agreed to with the permit.... Oct 29, 2017

[Hide Comment] This felt like a 5.9 to me, especially once I understood the route. I misread the hard right traverse this route takes around halfway up and instead went more on an angle. Once I realized that was getting me into some harder 5.10 terrain, I backed off a bit and re-routed to take the hard right traverse and then went straight up to the next bolt from there. That felt much more like 5.9. Overall, I thought the route was much easier than Tava (5.10a/b to the left of it).

I gave this a PG-13 rating, because the moves between bolts 1 and 2 are not completely secure, and if you come off before tagging B2, you'll end up close to, or possibly on, the ground. The hard right traverse was also a little sketchy. If you come off in that section, you're going to have a good pendulum on low-angle slab. Aug 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] There were a few bolts (1 and 4 at least from what I remember) on this route that were loose and need to be tightened. Fun climb otherwise. 03-20-21. Mar 20, 2021

[Hide Comment] The anchors were updated, and Mussy hooks were added. Please consider a donation to the PPCA or ASCA for further hardware updates. Dec 18, 2023