Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Van Betten, Mamusia, Harrison
Page Views: 7,579 total · 61/month
Shared By: J W on Feb 28, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This stout roof is probably as neglected as Shit Howdy, but it is well worth the hike, especially if you start your day on Shit Howdy. Burl up the obvious crack system to the roof, continue the burl fest through the roof to the chains.

Location

This route is not located on the Shit Howdy boulder, but rather up and right, just about halfway between Physical Graffitti and Shit Howdy. If you're at Shit Howdy, look for the large hueco (3+ feet) on a cliff a little up and right. Risk Brothers is directly above this on the next major cliff) From Shit Howdy- head up to the crest of the hills and then right along the top, dropping down when the first real choice presents itself. You should see an obvious 3' wide ledge about 6' up running along the base of a cliff. Risk Brothers heads up the middle of this cliff. The best bet is to spot the cliff from the parking lot and keep it in view.

Protection

Gear to 3", double up 2" and 3"
Phil Esra  
 
Really, really fun, if short. Great little belay ledge. Rap anchors at the top. A little soft for the grade compared to Yosemite. Rewards good jamming technique. Nov 29, 2011
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A 0.75 camalot slots nicely to keep your belayer on the ledge if you blow the opening moves. Aside from that, 2 #1s & 2 or 3 #3s should see you thru. Amazing route. Short, but for RR at least legit 11a
The climb is in the shade but a short hike from the ridge where you can find some sun. Also worthwhile to walk past the climb and spot it from the floor before picking your approach up the gully Feb 22, 2012
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.11a
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.11a
Fun and short climb. Great first 5.11 lead, protects very well and is perfect hands through a roof. Super fun and worth the hike. Dec 30, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.11a
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.11a
The roof is the crux but don't downplay the start, as it's pretty strenuous off the deck and if you blow it you'll asshat your belayer. Protects well with 2 or 3 finger sized pieces and 2 hand-sized pieces. Also, a 0.75 or 0.5 camalot is good for a redirect above the roof to prevent your second from swinging.

No idea how to get onto the ledge from below, though. My friend and I ended up hiking around to the back and tunneling through between the main boulder and the enormous flake that is next to it. Well worth exploring that route as it is a pretty cool location. Apr 22, 2014
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Awesome route! If only it were three times as long. A previous comment recommended 2-3 #3s, which doesn't make much sense: I didn't place a single #3. Two #2s and one #1 for the roof is more than sufficient. Bring a .5 and a .75 for the finger crack before the roof, and maybe another .75 for your belayer.
The crack through the roof has enough variation so as not to make the grade size dependent: both my partner and I had pretty much perfect hands throughout the roof (#2 for me, #1 for her). In fact, whereas I had wide hands at the lip she had perfect fists. The hike up is a trudge, but well worth it. As noted in another comment: wait until you're at the gully directly below the route before hiking up, it'll make your life easier. Mar 21, 2015
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
 
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
 
More of a thrutch than I was expecting, but really fun climbing. May 4, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Fixed #3 camalot is in a fairly bad place up high - right where you'd jam or protect. As a result the climb has fewer options and may feel more hand-size dependent. If someone can take up a cable saw or something else to clean that crap out it would be a community service. May 29, 2015
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
 
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, TH
 
the fixed #3 is still there and is in the way. My partner tried to get it out but ended up shoving it further into the crack so hopefully it's out of the way now. Great route Dec 3, 2015
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.11a
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.11a
The fixed #3 did not seem to be in the way to me, but is super duper in there now. It's a tad bit behind a constriction, so good luck. Looks bomber. 5/7 would whip. However, I did not clip it or place anything around it. I found it unnecessary.

  • *Important Second note** my follower core shot his rope by falling and swinging even though the pro was quite close together. So if you fall, try to be right under your cams.
Mar 27, 2018
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
Sweet route! "Perfect hands" is obviously very subjective, and this route involves pulling #3 Camalot moves out a (fantastically cool) horizontal roof. It was rattly cupped hands for me, and I found the route to be somewhat hard for the grade.

Regarding the coreshot rope, the problem may be due to the fixed #3 Camalot in the back of the crack- our rope got stuck on the lobes of this cam when my follower was climbing. We suffered no rope damage, but we also extended every piece and placed an 0.5 Camalot as a directional above the roof (helpful for the follower). Mar 29, 2018
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
Pulled out one of the two stuck #3s. The other is in there deep and is twisted. Jan 27, 2019