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Kyle Hudie Route
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Nicolum Knob
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Crack, The V1 5 |
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Dead Soles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exaggerator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Greed S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kemosabe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kyle Hudie Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Land Down Under T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Life On A Chain T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Oddjob T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sakura T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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To Bolt or Not to Bee T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 49.3704, -121.3534 |
| FA: | Tyler Linn |
| Page Views: | 643 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Feb 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Climb the first few meters of First Blood (the 5.6 crack) then move right on a thin flake to the arete. Continue up the slabby arete to where it steepens and the bouldery crux section begins. Thin slab climbing past bolts leads to a move right around the arete onto a vertical wall and an almost footless mantel onto a large shelf. Continue up slabbier rock above to trees and a bolt belay.
It is possible to continue up a second pitch via a mossy slab over a giant detached flake (a few 5.6 moves with one bolt) another 25m or so to reach the ledge below Land Down Under, Exaggerator, Life on a Chain etc.
Location
This route is the right-hand one on the same ledge as Dead Soles and First Blood. Approach up the trail, take the fork marked "Base" and follow fixed lines across ledges to the right-hand bolt belay.
To get down, make two raps - one to the intermediate anchor on First Blood (20m) and one to the base ledge from there (25m).
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