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Routes in Nicolum Knob

Crack, The V1 5
Dead Soles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exaggerator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greed S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kemosabe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kyle Hudie Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Land Down Under T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life On A Chain T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Oddjob T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sakura T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Bolt or Not to Bee T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tyler Linn
Page Views: 41 total, 0/month
Shared By: Dru on Feb 11, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Climb the first few meters of First Blood (the 5.6 crack) then move right on a thin flake to the arete. Continue up the slabby arete to where it steepens and the bouldery crux section begins. Thin slab climbing past bolts leads to a move right around the arete onto a vertical wall and an almost footless mantel onto a large shelf. Continue up slabbier rock above to trees and a bolt belay.

It is possible to continue up a second pitch via a mossy slab over a giant detached flake (a few 5.6 moves with one bolt) another 25m or so to reach the ledge below Land Down Under, Exaggerator, Life on a Chain etc.

Location

This route is the right-hand one on the same ledge as Dead Soles and First Blood. Approach up the trail, take the fork marked "Base" and follow fixed lines across ledges to the right-hand bolt belay.

To get down, make two raps - one to the intermediate anchor on First Blood (20m) and one to the base ledge from there (25m).

Protection

Gear to 1" and 5? bolts.

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