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Routes in Nicolum Knob

Crack, The V1 5
Dead Soles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exaggerator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greed S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kemosabe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kyle Hudie Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Land Down Under T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life On A Chain T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Oddjob T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sakura T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Bolt or Not to Bee T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: D. Brayshaw, M-A Leclerc, April 5/09
Page Views: 379 total, 4/month
Shared By: Dru on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

From the bolted belay anchor on Banana Ledge, make a few moves up ledges to gain a splitter finger crack. From the top of the crack, move left and mantle to another ledge past a bolt, then climb a narrow, inset basalt dyke past a final bolt (crux) to the top. Mostly 5.7/8 climbing with a short 8+/9 crux.

Location

From the highway, hike up the trail that leads up the gully to the top of the crag, passing the start of Highway 12 and a short, steep sport climbing wall. About 2 minutes above the sport wall, look for an unmarked trail branching west out of the gully across a prominent ledge. Follow this trail to the edge of a large cliff and look for a pair of Fixe rappel anchors. Rappel 25m to Banana Ledge. Sakura takes the eastern (right hand) of two cleaned lines off the ledge. The other cleaned line is an ongoing slab project in the 5.11+ range that has not yet been bolted.

Protection

A few medium wired nuts or small (finger size) cams, and two bolts.

Photos

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