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Routes in Nicolum Knob

Crack, The V1 5
Dead Soles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exaggerator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greed S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kemosabe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kyle Hudie Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Land Down Under T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life On A Chain T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Oddjob T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sakura T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Bolt or Not to Bee T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 457 total, 4/month
Shared By: tlinn on Sep 24, 2008
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

A 4 pitch route up the west side of the cliff climbing a mix of cracks and slabs to the summit. The first and the fourth pitches are the best and the second and third pitches are shorter and less sustained. Pitch one climbs a splitter finger crack at a grade of 5.9 for a full 30 meters and can easily be linked into pitch 2 by following the slanting ramp at the extreme left side of the cliff. Pitch 3 has a few nice moves on a layback flake but is mostly walking along ledges and taking the path of least resistance to the bottom of pitch four. Pitch four has a mix of everything from a chimney start to a layback, to a finger crack and slab crux that demands your attention. The top gives nice views down the Fraser Valley and is a beautiful spot to relax and enjoy the surroundings.

Location

on the far left (west) side of the cliff, climbing steeply from the forest on pitch one just a few meters to the east of the Highway 12 sign on the trail. From the trail walk east on a faint trail to a left facing corner where the route begins. If you follow the trail to the Highway 12 sign you won't have any trouble finding the start of the route.

Protection

small nuts, tcu's and cams to fist size, with one big piece for the last pitch (a #4 or #3 camalot should suffice). The last pitch has four bolts and the other pitches are trad, but with bolted belays. From the top you rappel the route from the fixed rappel anchors, first dropping down pitch 4 to the belay at the top of pitch 3, but then rappelling more directly to a ledge directly below the start of pitch 4 on a large ledge with big trees (if you rappel straight down you won't miss it). From the ledge look for the fixed rap anchors taking you to the station at the top of pitch one, where you can easily rappel to the base of the route.

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