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Routes in Wonder Wall

Alley Cat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Asombrame S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cooters on Scooters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dain Bramage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Devil's Pitchfork, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Shenanigans S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Balldini , The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Halfway to Booty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kiddy Korner 1 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiddy Korner 2 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Squeeze Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bizness S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Hanky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Dead Teardrop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramsey's Shenanigans S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Headed Step Child S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 770 total, 7/month
Shared By: Rob P. on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

First pitch (5.8) is juggy and fun. Second pitch has the 11b crux right in the begining. It climbs the blank gray face with small hands and almost no feet. Only ~20ft of 5.11 climbing followed by easy 10 climbing to the second anchor. 3rd pitch of 5.10 is the best pitch! Follows a great crack up a roof; sustained and fun with a nice top-out on Wonder Wall.

Location

The furthest route to the right on Wonder Wall.

Protection

Bolts all the way up. 3 anchor stations.

Photos

Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.11b
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.11b
This route is pretty cool, especially for the area. I agree with the description and comments: P1- good warm up. Pitch 2 has 2 options: The intended route follows the bolt line up a crux section of 2 or 3 bolts. It has 2 different sequential .11a sections imho, separated by a thin rest that pushes the grade to .11b and eases up dramatically. The other way to do pitch 2 is head right, into the corner and stretch left for clips but at an easy .10-.
Pitch 3: much more sustained than I was expecting with pretty awesome movement, interesting holds, optional crack etc... Worth the easy approach :) Jan 28, 2017
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Burly little slab section Jan 19, 2017
20 kN

  5.11b/c
20 kN    
  5.11b/c
The nameplate at the bottom of the route is no longer there. That or I missed it, and I looked pretty hard. You can rap the whole route with a 60m. Pitch three is the best pitch, one is reasonable, two is just okay. Jan 14, 2017
Morgan F. Smith
Texas
 
Morgan F. Smith   Texas
 
Pitch one is pretty uneventful, but heads up to a nice ledge. Definitely lead pitch two, it's very technical, tiny and difficult. Small holds with no feet for the first 10-15 feet and then it lightens up. This pitch also ends at a great belay ledge. The last pitch is fun as well, leading to a nice summit with hanging belay. I'd say 14 draws should be plenty. A good cool down or warm up! Feb 8, 2016
Phill T  
P2 can be done two ways. Left at what I would call very technical and thin crimpfest with no feet 11++, or right using the somewhat dirty corner at more of an 11ab. Third pitch is super fun, well bolted and I felt pretty soft for 10d. Great ledges at all belays that have easily accessible anchors for the neighboring route. You could easily bypass the 11b and do the 10b? next door for a fun 9, 10, 10, 3 pitch route! Dec 25, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
I did P1 and P3. Both are very good, especially P3. Nov 20, 2011