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Routes in Wonder Wall

Alley Cat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Asombrame S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cooters on Scooters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dain Bramage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Devil's Pitchfork, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Shenanigans S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Balldini , The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Halfway to Booty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kiddy Korner 1 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiddy Korner 2 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Squeeze Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bizness S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Hanky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Dead Teardrop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramsey's Shenanigans S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Headed Step Child S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ann Ramsey Ed Wright
Page Views: 1,722 total, 23/month
Shared By: gblauer Blauer on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

This is a new climb on the Wonder Wall. It's just left of Evil Shenanigans and has a nameplate at it's base. Three pitches of really fun climbing. P3 is the climb on the far left of the ledge, don't go up the climb on the righ, it's the third pitch of Evil (10d). P3 is one of the best pitches I have done in the park. Giant jugs matched by superb exposure. This is a fine climb.

Location

Nameplate at the base of the climb, just left of Evil Shenanigans.

Protection

bolts, rap.

Photos

Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.9+
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.9+
This is now a 2 pitch climb. The third pitch has been chopped. Feb 26, 2017
Jon Jones
Penticton, B.C.
Jon Jones   Penticton, B.C.
The chopped bolts on the first two pitches of Ramsey's have been replaced and it looks like a start on the top (3rd) pitch has been made (last 3 bolts have been replaced). The crux of pitch 1 feels more like 10a by Potrero standards. Feb 5, 2017
Josiah Cooper
Lenexa, KS
 
Josiah Cooper   Lenexa, KS
 
So Ramsey's basically doesn't exist any more! Bolts have been chopped so you're basically climbing the first pitch of Ramsey and then the next 2 pitches are on Evil Shenanigans. Still great climbing, but if you're expecting some 5.9+, be prepared for a sweet surprise; this route has its own set of shenanigans!!

Speaking of shenanigans, if you want to top out the high point over the last belay, there's a sweet little seat up there and a double length sling can add some peace of mind around the rock at the top. Extend a long tether (clove hitch on a biner in the single bolt) and run up to the top for 360 views of the canyon! Dec 13, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Final 3rd pitch is easily skipped in lue of P3 of Evil Shenanigans. The combo of Ramsey with Evil finish is worth repeating.

The large ledge before the final pitches (choose your finale) can easily accommodates pulling the rope and finishing both pitches giving you a bonus 4th pitch. Perhaps that's Super Shenanigans?? Both members of your team psyched to lead Evil?? That works too.

Notables:
Ramsey's rope pull isn't as clean as Evil.
Ramsey > Evil anchors are about 17" apart so if you're concerned about leading the Evil finish... just bump your anchor to the right and TR from top of P2 ledge. Mar 4, 2016
Sherie Lou
Washington, DC
 
Sherie Lou   Washington, DC
 
AWESOME EXPOSURE! P3 is the money pitch. Belay stance is kind of uncomfortable with the sharp rock and narrowness of the "pillar." Feb 6, 2016
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Great route! definitely not 300 ft. pitches are about 80ft each so 240 total. pitch 2 felt the toughest (9+) and pitch 3 is the money pitch. Dec 24, 2014