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Ramsey's Shenanigans

5.10a, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 242 votes
FA: Ann Ramsey Ed Wright
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Wonder Wall

Description

This is a new climb on the Wonder Wall. It's just left of Evil Shenanigans and has a nameplate at it's base. Three pitches of really fun climbing. P3 is the climb on the far left of the ledge, don't go up the climb on the righ, it's the third pitch of Evil (10d). P3 is one of the best pitches I have done in the park. Giant jugs matched by superb exposure. This is a fine climb.

Location

Second from the right, just left of Evil Shenanigans.

Protection

12 bolts on 3rd pitch to anchors with chains (fewer than 10 bolts on P1 and P2) 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beautiful setting
[Hide Photo] Beautiful setting
The opening moves on the last Pitch.  Move out on to the arête and smile all the way to the top.
[Hide Photo] The opening moves on the last Pitch. Move out on to the arête and smile all the way to the top.
Top of the third pitch
[Hide Photo] Top of the third pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
[Hide Comment] Great route! definitely not 300 ft. pitches are about 80ft each so 240 total. pitch 2 felt the toughest (9+) and pitch 3 is the money pitch. Dec 24, 2014
SLou Boo
Tacoma, WA
 
[Hide Comment] AWESOME EXPOSURE! P3 is the money pitch. Belay stance is kind of uncomfortable with the sharp rock and narrowness of the "pillar." Feb 6, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] Final 3rd pitch is easily skipped in lue of P3 of Evil Shenanigans. The combo of Ramsey with Evil finish is worth repeating.

The large ledge before the final pitches (choose your finale) can easily accommodates pulling the rope and finishing both pitches giving you a bonus 4th pitch. Perhaps that's Super Shenanigans?? Both members of your team psyched to lead Evil?? That works too.

Notables:
Ramsey's rope pull isn't as clean as Evil.
Ramsey > Evil anchors are about 17" apart so if you're concerned about leading the Evil finish... just bump your anchor to the right and TR from top of P2 ledge. Mar 4, 2016
Josiah Cooper
El Paso, TX
 
[Hide Comment] So Ramsey's basically doesn't exist any more! Bolts have been chopped so you're basically climbing the first pitch of Ramsey and then the next 2 pitches are on Evil Shenanigans. Still great climbing, but if you're expecting some 5.9+, be prepared for a sweet surprise; this route has its own set of shenanigans!!

Speaking of shenanigans, if you want to top out the high point over the last belay, there's a sweet little seat up there and a double length sling can add some peace of mind around the rock at the top. Extend a long tether (clove hitch on a biner in the single bolt) and run up to the top for 360 views of the canyon! Dec 13, 2016
Jon Jones
Penticton, B.C.
[Hide Comment] The chopped bolts on the first two pitches of Ramsey's have been replaced and it looks like a start on the top (3rd) pitch has been made (last 3 bolts have been replaced). The crux of pitch 1 feels more like 10a by Potrero standards. Feb 5, 2017
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is now a 2 pitch climb. The third pitch has been chopped. Feb 26, 2017
[Hide Comment] Confirming (as of 1/5/18) that the last (third) pitch of Ramsey's has been chopped and only the final pitch of Evil Shenanigans remains. Ramsey's to Evil's third pitch is a great cruise and well worth it. Jan 18, 2018
Jan Tarculas
San Diego, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] As of today Jan 19, 2018 2nd pitch has bolts and probably goes at around 5.10a/b. Has brand new bolts/hangars. The 3rd pitch only has bolts up top, rear of the route got chopped Jan 19, 2019
Jon Jones
Penticton, B.C.
[Hide Comment] All chopped bolts have now been replaced on 3rd pitch. Feb 1, 2019
Andy Genereux
Calgary, AB
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Thought this climb was 10a/b, 10a, 5.9 and certaintenly didn’t deserve to be chopped a few years back. Climbed Evil the same day and found the bolting comes close for about five meters over three pitches, the climbing however is quite independent glad to see this great moderate route back. Definitely one of the better routes at the grade in the whole area. Feb 5, 2019
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] At first belay/rappel station there is a crack running through center of left bolt. Also the rock behind this bolt appears to be cracked at top and on left margin. Looks like it needs to be moved.

Second pitch is starting to get polished near the crux. Watch those feet. Feb 22, 2019
Brennan VanDyke
Rogers, AR
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! The movement on the first and second pitches are a blast, and while the rock quality on the final pitch deteriorates, the exposure was pretty fun and exciting. Awesome route for practicing multi-pitch leading and techniques for a lighter leader. Mar 20, 2019
Austin Martin
Morgantown, WV
 
[Hide Comment] To get the best bang for your buck I recommend linking P1+P2 (we did easily with 60m), then climbing P3 of Evil Shenanigans (rightmost bolt line when on comfy belay ledge). P3 of Evil is the money pitch.

Caution: Careful with loose rock here(as with the rest of EPC), another party pulled off a block on P3 of Ramsey's a couple of days after we climbed this; it shattered around the base where many people were cragging. Luckily nobody got seriously injured. Jan 23, 2020
Mandie Walls
Kelowna, BC
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Pitch One - 9 bolts, Pitch 2 - 7 bolts, pitch 3 - 10 bolts. Bolting on the first pitch felt a bit weird. Can rap down the route on the right to allow other people to get on Ramsey’s as it is quite popular. Mar 5, 2020
I F
Megalopolis Adjacent
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Be very careful at the summit anchor on this route. The ledge where you stand is actively crumbling away and liable to shower the crowd below with baseball sized rocks. Aug 10, 2021
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
  5.10a R
[Hide Comment] One of the best strong moderate multipitch routes at EPC. Really interesting, long pitches, with lots of features 5.9, 5.10aR, 5.9. At the top of p1 and p2 there are 2 bolted options. Take the left ones. In the 2nd half of p2 there is a runout section between 2 bolts (4m) on polished rock that could use an extra bolt. Mar 28, 2022
Mattie Quigley
Durham, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Bolts are fine! Anchors are fine! Def not R! Very cool route. We had a blast! Dec 3, 2022
Todd Kice
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Kevin must have been on another route because all three pitches are very well bolted and very safe. P1 is about 9 bolts, P2 is about 7 bolts, and P3 is EXACTLY 12 bolts leading into anchors with chains.

P1 felt the hardest and is probably another classic El Potrero 9. P2 felt like an 8 with one mildly thoughtful move that is easy once you see the moves (and it is extremely well bolted). P3 is the most fun and exposed and much longer than P2 (12 bolts) but similar climbing. Jan 3, 2023
John Serjeantson
Whitehorse, Yukon
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. Not sure why the crux is the most runout part of the climb but seems to be a theme in EPC. Fall looks clean but definitely got the blood pumping. Perfect ledges at every belay and the rock quality on the first two pitches is just sublime. Jan 15, 2023