Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Evil Shenanigans

5.11b, Sport, 240 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 46 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Wonder Wall


First pitch (5.8) is juggy and fun. Second pitch has the 11b crux right in the begining. It climbs the blank gray face with small hands and almost no feet. Only ~20ft of 5.11 climbing followed by easy 10 climbing to the second anchor. 3rd pitch of 5.10 is the best pitch! Follows a great crack up a roof; sustained and fun with a nice top-out on Wonder Wall.


The furthest route to the right on Wonder Wall.


Bolts all the way up. 3 anchor stations.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of the third pitch from the 2nd belay stance.
[Hide Photo] View of the third pitch from the 2nd belay stance.
The summit is great!
[Hide Photo] The summit is great!
Plate at the bottom says it all ;)
[Hide Photo] Plate at the bottom says it all ;)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] I did P1 and P3. Both are very good, especially P3. Nov 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] P2 can be done two ways. Left at what I would call very technical and thin crimpfest with no feet 11++, or right using the somewhat dirty corner at more of an 11ab. Third pitch is super fun, well bolted and I felt pretty soft for 10d. Great ledges at all belays that have easily accessible anchors for the neighboring route. You could easily bypass the 11b and do the 10b? next door for a fun 9, 10, 10, 3 pitch route! Dec 25, 2014
Morgan F. Smith
[Hide Comment] Pitch one is pretty uneventful, but heads up to a nice ledge. Definitely lead pitch two, it's very technical, tiny and difficult. Small holds with no feet for the first 10-15 feet and then it lightens up. This pitch also ends at a great belay ledge. The last pitch is fun as well, leading to a nice summit with hanging belay. I'd say 14 draws should be plenty. A good cool down or warm up! Feb 8, 2016
20 kN

[Hide Comment] The nameplate at the bottom of the route is no longer there. That or I missed it, and I looked pretty hard. You can rap the whole route with a 60m. Pitch three is the best pitch, one is reasonable, two is just okay. Jan 14, 2017
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
[Hide Comment] Burly little slab section Jan 19, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
[Hide Comment] This route is pretty cool, especially for the area. I agree with the description and comments: P1- good warm up. Pitch 2 has 2 options: The intended route follows the bolt line up a crux section of 2 or 3 bolts. It has 2 different sequential .11a sections imho, separated by a thin rest that pushes the grade to .11b and eases up dramatically. The other way to do pitch 2 is head right, into the corner and stretch left for clips but at an easy .10-.
Pitch 3: much more sustained than I was expecting with pretty awesome movement, interesting holds, optional crack etc... Worth the easy approach :) Jan 28, 2017
[Hide Comment] Bring a friend with long arms if you intend to avoid the 11b. I tried to climb 10 variation to the right, but couldn't reach the crux clip. If you're vertically inclined, either run it out or climb the intended line. Apr 9, 2018
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
[Hide Comment] P2 felt pretty hard for 5.11b. I almost onsightrd my first 12a yesterday and this was pretty hard compared to that. Easily 5.11c Jan 19, 2019
Andy Genereux
Calgary, AB
[Hide Comment] The third pitch is one of the best at the grade in the Potrero the second pitch is a bit contrived most climb the corner and clip the bolt out left on the face. Probably 10d but you can make it much harder staying on the compact face only. Feb 18, 2019
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
[Hide Comment] Did the first pitch of Ramseys to the Evil pitches. Ramseys is a good first pitch at maybe 10a. The 11a/b slab pitch seems unreal horrendous without at least tickling the holds out right. 3rd pitch 10d is a great pitch and seemed plenty for the grade. Really good route all tolled with a bit of something on each pitch. Feb 28, 2019