Type: Ice, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hassig and Bob Pike, 1978
Page Views: 1,479 total · 12/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Jan 8, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route doesn't get fat very often but if it does it is a must do, it is a lot of fun. Can be done in two pitches but also in one with a 70m rope. Start right on the easy slab and make your way up to the beautiful column, that is very inviting. Once past the slab, move to the left of the ice flow. This requires a semi awkward traverse. From here climb up the steep ice using all the rests you can get. Just before the top there is sometimes a foot on the rock fin that sticks out; be careful with the crampons...

Location

When you approach from the Blackjack Boulders this route is the tall column directly in front of you, look at a picture and it will be easy to see and hard to miss.

Protection

Screws of all lengths, at least one long screw to put at the base of the column, also rock gear because there will be optional rock gear up through the route but mainy at the bottom.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  WI5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  WI5
I have heard that the FA of this route is Chris Hassig does anyone know if this is true? Jan 11, 2009
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Yes, Chris Hassig and Bob Pike, 1978 according to "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England, 3rd Ed." by S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox. Jun 20, 2012
During moments of abundant ice, Fangmanship and Reason to Be Cheerful (the left fang) have direct starts to the left of the ramp on the right that leads up under Molar/Headwall. Mar 16, 2014