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Routes in The Mustang

BeeWare! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caballo Loco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliente S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chertin for Certain S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
DMB S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Y Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Men In Funny Hats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mojo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mustang Sally S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Safari S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mas Boot T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nova Super Sport S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pencil Dick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Saddle Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Se Camina Espanol S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slim Jim T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinkbug Cowgirl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Green Swallow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JSt,EFR,'01
Page Views: 494 total · 4/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

Thin face climbing that goes on and on with the exception of one little ledge with thin holds that make getting on it then moving right on it a bit awkward.

Location [Edit]

Just left of Left Y Line. Starts up a section with some finger locks then continues straight up until you are under the right side of the roof.

Protection [Edit]



susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
10 bolts plus the rings for the anchor. 2 routes right of the churt boulder. Cool route! Feb 3, 2009
Derek Anderson
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
Hey Eric ,
I wanted to say this is a beautiful line!! I do have a question though regaurding bolting. I know that sometimes bolts can have a tendancy to get old but since this is a new route I have to ask. Should one the anchor bolts be moving under weight?

You have seen me I'm a big guy but by far not the biggest. I noticed when I put pressure on the anchors however the right side bolt at the rap rings seemed to wiggle some AND I"m positive you know how to correctly bolt.
I'm just new to this and was wondering if its the rock quality up there at the top because of the limestone more prone to wear and tear? Jan 31, 2010
Derek ,

Was the bolt itself moving or was the hanger just loose.

Cranking down the nut would probably tighten the bolt up inside the hole again if the bolts loose.

We used the best pewter bolts money could but at the Mustang so they should hold body weight for a few more years. Feb 1, 2010
Derek Anderson
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
Hey Jim, sorry for the late reply. I think it was the bolt itself * potentially the best location for one just the rock at the top of the route is not as quality*

I'm sure the route is safe I just was trying to gauge bolt placements on a crag like this. I'm not a developer but enjoy learning how the art is made :) Dec 1, 2011
If the nut is a little loose the bolt can move a little as the hole is slightly larger than the shaft itself. It shouldn't move much more than a 32th of an inch or so. Carry a wrench and snug the nut down a half a turn or so and I bet it stops moving. Dec 1, 2011

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