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Routes in The Mustang

BeeWare! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caballo Loco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliente S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chertin for Certain S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
DMB S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Y Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Men In Funny Hats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mojo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mustang Sally S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Safari S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mas Boot T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nova Super Sport S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pencil Dick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Saddle Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Se Camina Espanol S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slim Jim T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinkbug Cowgirl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Green Swallow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: Eric Rhicard, Jim Scott
Page Views: 632 total, 5/month
Shared By: Braxtron on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

First half is 5.8, not-so-great. Second half is committing, fun, and will put hair on your chest, be you a man or woman.

Location

Just before the "corner" where the south face starts to curve and become a west face. Either double rope rappel, or rap. to P1 anchors of New Safari (from end of DMB: about 100' down and 15' left).

Protection

Ring anchors @ top + lots of bolts. Bring all the draws you got.

Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
Pulled three fist-sized rocks off prior to the rounding the roof. I was never in any danger and had time to warn my belayer before tossing the rocks to the ground.

FYI... Direct Mustang Buttress (DMB) Jan 25, 2010
Jimbo  
Susan,
Your missing some fine climbing by not thrashing further along to get on Caballo Loco, Fuerte Vaquero, Pegasus Weeps and I Laughed I Cried. These are 4 really good routes that will fill your day. Take 2 ropes, and some extra hold on. Feb 6, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
I think it took 16 draws for this route and was super windy after pulling the bulge towards the top.

Let this be your last stop. Continuing around the corner in search of great lines requires more desire & landscaping tools than I had. Feb 3, 2009
Braxtron
...
 
Braxtron   ...
 
FA'ers rate this climb 10+ on the topo. May 1, 2007