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Routes in The Mustang

BeeWare! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caballo Loco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliente S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chertin for Certain S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
DMB S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Y Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Men In Funny Hats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mojo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mustang Sally S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Safari S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mas Boot T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nova Super Sport S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pencil Dick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Saddle Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Se Camina Espanol S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slim Jim T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinkbug Cowgirl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Green Swallow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 102 ft
FA: JSt, DBr ?
Page Views: 1,088 total, 8/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Apr 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Long and sustained. Lots of variety, crimps, underclings, sidepulls, pinches, jugs, slopey stuff, little pockets, huge pockets, and one shaped like a big bull penis. This climb has it all.

There is a distinct crux near the top. I think it was between the last two bolts. Thin moves there.

A 60 meter barely reaches with rope stretch. I think My rope might be short for 60M though...

Location

2nd route from the right in a little cove about 100ft up from where the trail deposits you by Beeware. Starts on a nice ledge.

Protection

12 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

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Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Pretty outstanding route. Feb 9, 2011
Jimbo  
Actually there is a soda straw formation way in the back of one of the holes at the top. That's where the name actually came from. Jun 11, 2007
That's funny. I thought the route was named after the very long and narrow hole that is about a third of the way up the route. Jun 4, 2007
Thanks for including me Joseph but I was not involved in the FA of this one. I did climb it and it was "thin where it was hard" thus the name. This is a must do route. Apr 15, 2007