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Routes in The Mustang

BeeWare! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caballo Loco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliente S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chertin for Certain S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
DMB S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Y Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Men In Funny Hats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mojo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mustang Sally S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Safari S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mas Boot T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nova Super Sport S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pencil Dick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Saddle Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Se Camina Espanol S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slim Jim T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinkbug Cowgirl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Green Swallow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dean Brault, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, and/or Jim Scott
Page Views: 209 total, 3/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jan 13, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

No Mas Boot begins with twenty feet of less-than-vertical featured face protected by the odd, small weakness. From here ascend a series of large, somewhat grungy pods. Clip the lone bolt before face climbing to the anchors.

Personally I found the climbing enjoyable but the rock questionable for gear placements. There were ample placements but I had trouble trusting them.

Location

No Mas Boot is the third route from the right. It climbs the largest weaknesses in the sector and can be spotted by the lone bolt above the highest pod. The anchors are shared with Men In Funny Hats.

Protection

Gear, 1 Bolt, Ring Chains.

A rack spanning small cams, such as C3s, to 2" seemed sufficient. I carried doubles but depending on comfort level and creativity that may be overkill.

Photos

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Jimbo  
John,
This is the first line we did at the stang. It was the first route I did after getting out of a moon boot I had had on for six weeks. I remember thinking the gear was adequate but I was glad to get the bolt in. Jan 31, 2013