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Routes in The Mustang

BeeWare! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caballo Loco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caliente S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chertin for Certain S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
DMB S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Y Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Men In Funny Hats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mojo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mustang Sally S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Safari S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mas Boot T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nova Super Sport S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pencil Dick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Saddle Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Se Camina Espanol S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slim Jim T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinkbug Cowgirl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Green Swallow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Scott, Dean Brault
Page Views: 720 total · 5/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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The first pitch felt like harder 5.10. It goes up a dihedral-like feature. At the anchors, continue left. (If you go right, you will be on Fuerte Vaquero and it looks a lot harder.) The route gets steeper and there is a section of 3 or 4 bolts that is fairly sustained. There is great climbing here with many pockets of various sizes. This route can be climbed as two pitches or one long one.


to the left of an enormous chimney/cave formation on the west side of the crag, see topo


17 bolts + 2 sets of anchors


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Fuerte Vaquero, is pumpy and sustained 5.12a/b. It's free air if come off, so it's a safe run if your climbing at this level. Feb 15, 2007
FA Jim Scott, Dean Brault. Using long runners this can be climbed as a single pitch route. The rope gets heavy until you clip that draw over your head. Then you feel like you just lost weight. It is a battle to do the whole thing as one pitch, but it's cool to go and go and go... Apr 14, 2007

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