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Routes in River Rock

Africa Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunken Sporto's S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Case S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Improbable T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just to Watch Him Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Karl's Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Karls Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Bigglesworth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
On Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
School Stinks T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Session T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Total Recall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
UNR Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: [[106382426]], June 1978
Page Views: 1,212 total, 11/month
Shared By: Rick D on Dec 5, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Short. Bouldery, slopy start to a horizontal crack. Traverse left on crack and make big move to verticle crack pocket. Put first piece in here. Continue up twin cracks making balancy moves. Another Crux after twins.

Location

Just to the left of UNR Crack. Horizontal crack about 8 feet of the ground with slanting verticle crack coming off that.

Protection

Trad

Photos

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Niko Nakamura
Reno
 
Niko Nakamura   Reno
 
After the bold start you can sink super solid nuts in the finger cracks, felt really safe on this one. Oct 15, 2015
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10b
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10b
I really like this climb. A bold and difficult start, thin protection and delicate climbing till it gets a little blocky on top. Pure Fun Nov 5, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
Short but sweet! Jun 12, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Yes, great FA story. Shutting the hecklers up with a send feels pretty good!

Oh yeah, the other day we did a variant on this climb by avoiding the right crack. It definitely adds a little oomph! Very enjoyable eliminate. Apr 10, 2011
213blc
THA WEST COAST
213blc   THA WEST COAST
Great description, Ron. Take comfort in the fact that similar shenanigans still happen 30 years later... Feb 13, 2011
Ron Anderson  
 
hehe,,,,picture, its june 1978. We were having an easy sunny mornin at river rock...The scent of heady erb wafted lazily ... There was this little wall on the left side of the crag that had been calling me so now was the time to put it to bed.....As i began (remeber, this is 78, ebs,,,and a few tiny wired stoppers lol)and got in a piece about fifteen feet up which was a 1 1/2 stopper...I was a bit gripped,,, then heard a strange voice talking to other people saying,,,"its quite improbable that hes going to make it" !!???? WTF??? I glanced down and there was the whole UNR climbing club which had invaded our quiet ventures!!!!! I gave out a loud answer that went something like "MY ASS IM NOT GONNA MAKE IT!"--and porceeded to chew up the rest placing only one other tiny stopper near the top!!! Upon fixing an anchor, i yelled down to my buddy to lash on the bong cuz i needed more magic!!! He cracked up, and the looks we got from "the club" were much like charlie manson got!!! The scuttled back over to the right leaving us once again in peace LMAO!!! I just loved those days...... Hence the name "improbable"..... Dec 31, 2009
It's much quicker to lead this climb then to set up a top rope. 3 pieces is plenty - blue and yellow TCU, plus a #1 friend Mar 2, 2009