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Routes in Main Wall
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Africa Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drunken Sporto's S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Head Case S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Improbable T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just to Watch Him Die TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Karl's Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Karls Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Bigglesworth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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On Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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School Stinks T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Summer Session T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Total Recall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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UNR Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Van Down By The River T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ye’ Ol’ Top Rope TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Unknown, Added Nov. 24, 2019 by Mike Higdon |
| Page Views: | 1,184 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Higdon on Nov 24, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
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Description
A fun top rope route. Scramble far right up River Rock to the top of Head Case to find a pair of older but good condition anchors at the base of a boulder. Easy to set up anchors while sitting in a spot almost shaped like a bench complete with a spot to put your legs.
The route can start at the base of Head Case for a sturdy belay Or it can start inside the crack gulley and possibly even lower (would add ~20ft). We started at Head Case and immediately climbed up the boulders to the right toward a series of vertical cracks. Hang out on the corner of the face and slightly inside the cracks for solid holds or mix and match crack climbing to make it harder. Crux is after the first few steps above those boulders staring at a jug pointing away from you. After that it’s a combination of great foot holds, some hand cracks and jugs. Can climb all the way up to the shelf below the anchors or all the way up to the anchors. Easy clean and rappel. Beware of getting rope stuck in some of those cracks on the shelf to avoid a lot of back and forth.
The route can start at the base of Head Case for a sturdy belay Or it can start inside the crack gulley and possibly even lower (would add ~20ft). We started at Head Case and immediately climbed up the boulders to the right toward a series of vertical cracks. Hang out on the corner of the face and slightly inside the cracks for solid holds or mix and match crack climbing to make it harder. Crux is after the first few steps above those boulders staring at a jug pointing away from you. After that it’s a combination of great foot holds, some hand cracks and jugs. Can climb all the way up to the shelf below the anchors or all the way up to the anchors. Easy clean and rappel. Beware of getting rope stuck in some of those cracks on the shelf to avoid a lot of back and forth.
Location
This route appears as No. 13 on the hand drawn topo map image. It’s called “The old T.R. 5.8” It’s the furthest right most route on the River Rock directly next to Head Case. Look for two trees sticking out of the top of the cliff above Head Case’s anchor to get your bearings. The bolts for this are up top of the cliff and to the right of a small boulder (that could be used as a natural anchor) on top of the cliff. Requires unpleasant scrambling to get to but worth it.
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