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Routes in River Rock

Africa Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunken Sporto's S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Case S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Improbable T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just to Watch Him Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Karl's Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Karls Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Bigglesworth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
On Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
School Stinks T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Session T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Total Recall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
UNR Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,094 total · 19/month
Shared By: Rick D on Dec 5, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

WARNING: This is the old rating before the Africa Flake broke off... Alot harder now and height dependent. Also can be run out and dirty, might want to take .5"-1" cam for extra protection if needed.

That being said, can be a really fun climb. The crux now is getting to the first bolt without the flake. If you are under 5'11", you might want to start on Karls crack, put a few pieces in, and traverse right over to the second bolt. Make some good, slight overhanging moves. Get to good ledge and traverse right. Make hard unprotected moves up crack (Bring Trad). Finish on chains.

Location

Just to the right of Karls crack.

Protection

Mixed

Photos

Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10c
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.10c
This is no longer a 10a, and a lot of the climbing is rather bold for the grade. The first crux is 10-15ft up with the first bolt above your head, and then a mix of tenuous trad/bolt-protected climbing follows. A lot of fun and worth it. Make sure you bring a rack of smaller pieces (< #1) as this would be rather run out with no gear. Nov 13, 2016
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
I'm 6 foot and have no problem reaching the flake. My wife is 5'6'' and that is the crux for her. Half the time she makes it, the other half . . . no dice. Jun 12, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I'd definitely recommend a single rack from fingers up to 1" on this. There's a cruxy section right before the third bolt and a fall would be a grounder without additional protection. If you're into that, cool, but fair warning.

This is a quality climb with some very testy moves for the given grade. Apr 17, 2011
Thrutchtastic
Sparks, NV
Thrutchtastic   Sparks, NV
The mantle to the first bolt is heady and difficult, but easy to aid through. I'd recommend doing this purely as a sport route. It's spicy, and you'll deck from 40' if you blow the third clip, but--boy--is it ever fun! The climbing lets up once you gain the flake. I'm 5'8", and the reach to the flake isn't that bad. Granted, I haven't climbed it since last season--when did the flake break? Jun 5, 2009

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