Type: Trad
FA: Lon Harter, Kelle Harter, 96
Page Views: 542 total · 4/month
Shared By: Rick D on Dec 5, 2008 with updates from Lon Harter
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Easy. Good Warm Up. A little run out at the top, but easy moves.

This is a trad route with a bolted face start to a crack system. The arete is a commonly done as a 5.4 variation.

Location

To the right of Africa Flake.

Protection

Bolts. Pro to 1".

Photos

Jeffrey LaCombe
Sparks, NV
  5.7 PG13
Jeffrey LaCombe   Sparks, NV
  5.7 PG13
As was pointed out, the bolts stop about 2/3 the way up. Bring a few smaller nuts (1/2" ish), or run it out. I think the 5.7 rating assumes you use the arete, in addition to face holds. Mar 13, 2009
Thrutchtastic
Sparks, NV
Thrutchtastic   Sparks, NV
The arete isn't worth it. The crack that's out on the face, though, is. You definitely want gear (to 1" if I remember) if you plan on leaving the safety of the ~5.4 arete. Jun 5, 2009
Josh Cameron
California
  5.7
Josh Cameron   California
  5.7
"Meh" was my reaction to this climb. Its okay, but there's much better stuff here. Jun 12, 2011
Lon Harter
Reno
 
Lon Harter   Reno
 
Pro to 2". Mike Carville had asked me to retro bolt this route years ago to make it a "sport friendly" route but I declined as this is a trad route with a bolted face start and it was done ground up much to my belayers dismay. The route leads to the crack system and I can't bring my self to place bolts by a crack. The arete is a variation of this route and both paths are commonly done. This route receives a lot of traffic as a warm up route, waiting for other lines to open up and as a TR'n for beginners. The route took weeks of cleaning to make it safe as the granite is in a decomposing state. Originally the route had open cold shuts at the top which have since worn out and were then replaced with bolts anchors. The UNR club has recently (2017 -2018) replaced the old bolt anchor system once again with yet an other new anchor.

  • A big shout out to the UNR club for all your efforts thanks for all you do!
May 23, 2018
Andrew Wevers
Reno, NV
Andrew Wevers   Reno, NV
Wasp hive in the crack about 3/4 the way up after you place your first piece of pro. Might be gone by winter. Oct 26, 2018 · Temporary Report