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Routes in Valley of The Blind

Black, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buffalo Bill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bushwacker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocked N' Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cosmic Hippo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Demise of Mr. Riffraff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fade to Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Falling Down S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fu Man Chu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Geshido T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grand Traverse, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Insidious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Big Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Shadow of Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pain and Suffering T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Painted Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spartican T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Speak No Evil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tomahawk T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vision Quest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Wisdom and Folly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tony Mayse?
Page Views: 2,918 total, 27/month
Shared By: Stephen Nance on Dec 1, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


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Description

Beautiful route that follows the prominent black streak just to the right of painted warrior. This route is the best quality sandstone route I have ever been on. Unlike painted warrior, this route is not made of a broken system of flakes, but rather "molded" in bomber crimps. First pitch is 12b, and second is 12d. Done in 1 pitch it takes the 13a grade (and the only way to do it in my opinion!).

Location

Painted Wall, just right of painted warrior

Protection

Draws... 10-11?

Photos

This was one of my proudest routes to put up. My wife Lori and I came down on a 38 deg. fall day in 2003 to climb the route in it's entirety in one pitch. This route will always be special to me. I hope everyone enjoys the line as much as I have!

Cheers,

Tony Mayse May 15, 2010