Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: FA: Sean Burns, others 2000 FFA: Ben Williams 2006
Page Views: 789 total · 5/month
Shared By: beny on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a 45 degree overhanging finger crack with a bouldery start and finish. Sean's original name for this route is right on the money with pain tolerance being key. What this line lacks in length it makes up for in power. Find the crux exiting the crack and making it to the anchors. On the free ascent of this, the first pitch actually ended at a no-hands stance above the anchors, but below the second roof. Enjoy one of Arkansas' most difficult cracks.

Location

This route is located at the SW end (climber's left) of Vally of the Blind. Find this route by walking from the walk-down past all of the routes listed in Frisbie's guide to a long roof system that faces the Sam's Throne area. On the right side of this roof system is a short, overhanging finger crack with chain anchors over the first roof.

Protection

Protection is adequate and will depend on what parts of the crack you are willing to give up as holds. Emphasis on blue to red metolius tcu will do you just fine.

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beny
  5.12+
beny  
  5.12+
This route is intended to have a second pitch that would lead through the second roof, but finding the rock dry has proven difficult. Hopefully, when someone does finally get to it, they will climb it in the same style as the first pitch- on natural gear. Jan 26, 2007
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I actually heard that this route got down-graded to 5.4, given that the FFA-ist was really overweight at the time he climbed it. Nov 9, 2007