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Routes in Valley of The Blind

Black, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buffalo Bill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bushwacker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocked N' Loaded T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cosmic Hippo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Demise of Mr. Riffraff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fade to Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Falling Down S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fu Man Chu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Geshido T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grand Traverse, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Insidious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Big Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Shadow of Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pain and Suffering T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Painted Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spartican T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Speak No Evil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tomahawk T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vision Quest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Wisdom and Folly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Williams, Collins
Page Views: 573 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jer Collins on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Starts in wide crack, intersects roof at 50 feet, then 35 feet of horizontal offwidth, and finally pulling through and emerging in daylight and fresh air.

Location

As approaching Painted Warrior wall, keep your eyes above for the edge of a massive roof. Let your pupils adjust, then realize the immense crack in the roof. Reverse your approach 50 feet, and skirt across low angle ledges to enter the cave. Dry occasionally.

Protection

Doubles to 4". the "R" is for the transition from vertical to horizontal. One trick is to turn away from the wall and to stem your way into finding pro. Spicy. Bolted anchors and a directional belay bolt at the lip of the roof.

Photos

Jer Collins  
 
has this seen a second ascent yet? Jan 2, 2008
beny  
this route is not intended for the claustrophibic, nor arachnaphobic. its best to find this one dry by searching in the late summer or early fall. if it is dry, its likely to be warm, humid, buggy, and filled with spiders- all of which qualify a quality southern roof crack. on the fa, we found thick webs and ninja spiders able to jump back and forth from one side of the crack to the other. these deadly creatures were most obviously trying to kill us. thankfully, a few quick swipes of the hand at timely moments, followed by a heavy thud as they hit the ground below, protected us from serious danger. be thankful for the added gear at the routes end. while it doesn't actually protect the climbing, it does make the belay more comfortable. enjoy this new-wave classic.
-ben Jan 26, 2007