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Routes in Krishna & Serenity Spire

Adam's Arete S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Pool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Pool Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby's Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cesspool T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coug, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diving For Kipper Snacks T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eat My Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Higher Rites S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vishnu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Ed McEwan
Page Views: 441 total, 4/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a long pitch (full 30 meters; 60-meter rope **mandatory** -- and tie a knot in the end) right of Vishnu, on the upper south face of Krishna Spire, next to Berlin Wall. Belay from the top of the gully between the two walls.

Scramble about 30 feet to a ledge below a small grey face. Clip two bolts here, step right, chase two bolts up the right side of a nice arete, then join the crack Krishna Orange for 20 feet (thin-fingers and hand-sized gear here; I used a Metolius #1 TCU and a gold Camalot, and believe you me, you do want the gear or it will be a huuuuge runout). Alternately, you could just start up on the big ledge, on Krishna Orange, and link into the last 5 bolts on The Coug; bring gear for the lower crack if you do so.

Step left again onto a small perch, and then climb five bolts up the obtuse, gently overhanging corner above, making long reaches to good holds. Finish on a clean slab with a great, commanding position and first-class views of Lower Dream Canyon. Congrats: you've now Slain the Coug.

Location

20 feet right of Vishnu but with a lower start from the top of the gully.

Protection

9 bolts plus finger and hand-sized gear, to double-bolt anchors. 60-meter rope mandatory.

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