Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Krishna & Serenity Spire

Adam's Arete S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Pool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Pool Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby's Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cesspool T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coug, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diving For Kipper Snacks T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eat My Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Higher Rites S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vishnu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Fernando Falomir, Chris O'Connor
Page Views: 1,156 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chris O'Connor on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is sustained climbing up vertical wall. There are some moves in small cracks finishing at the top of the arete.

Location

It is on the upper Krishna formation, just west of the WWW and the Berlin Wall. Either rappel in from above the Berlin wall or scramble up the gully from the creek, class 3/4. The route itself is high above the creek on an expose buttress. It's between Pranja, the arete, and Vishnu.

Protection

6 bolts and a two bolt anchor. A stick clip for the beginning or 2 inch gear. Gear could be nice for the top to join Pranja without run out.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.11b/c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11b/c
Great climb and a pumpy warm-up for the Berlin Wall, but I am disturbed and disappointed by the bolts that are not 3/8" wedge bolts, like the bolts on "Vishnu", but 5/16" bolts with a 1/2" nut.
My guess is that these are not wedge bolts, but externally threaded 3/8" diameter sleeve bolts. If you are going to use this type of bolt, I think is best to use the 1/2" diameter ones (a 1/2" sleeve and a 3/8" diameter bolt). If they are wedge bolts, then that's really lame and dangerously weak.
If I am going to drill 3/8" diameter holes, I use a 3/8" Hilti or Fixe stainless steel wedge bolt. I usually prefer to place Powers (1/2" diameter X 2-3/4") 5 piece sleeve bolts. They stay tight unlike bolts with a nut on the end and are very strong. I stopped using the 3/8" diameter 5 piece bolts in 1995. The 5/16" bolt used in these sleeve anchors is fairly easy to break from overtightening. Once placed, they seem to work fine, but they are not as strong as the 1/2" diameter sleeve anchor with a 3/8" diameter bolt. It is very, very rare to hear about one of these 1/2" diameter sleeve bolts breaking from being tightened with a 8" or 9" wrench. Apr 8, 2013
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
We went up to do Vishnu and noticed this new route. This route is a junior version of routes on the Red Wall at Devil's Head. Excellent incut holds on a slightly overhanging wall. Great position. The top still has lichen and the holds are a little grainy, but it doesn't distract from this fine route. Excellent find guys. The knife-edge arete to the left looks wild (Pranja?), but there are some scary-looking flakes on it. Anybody done it?

This route and Vishnu are located on an exposed pedestal in one of the most scenic spots in the Boulder Canyon/Dream Canyon area. N Boulder Creek makes a big bend here so you can see up and down Dream Canyon as well as up Boulder Canyon towards the Narrows. Aug 1, 2008