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Eat My Lichen [Suggest Change]
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Krishna & Serenity Spire
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Adam's Arete S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Pool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Pool Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bobby's Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cesspool T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coug, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Diving For Kipper Snacks T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eat My Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Higher Rites S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vishnu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft |
| FA: | C. Moyer, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 90 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 5, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Access Closed
Details
The Boulder Falls Trail continues to be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail is off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail are closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description [Suggest Change]
This is a surprisingly good climb with good rock. It needed a bit of cleaning and could use a little more, but overall it is in good shape. The splitter hand crack midway through was a pleasant surprise.
Climb up opposing features and up into a curving thin dihedral. A few nut or small cam placements about 5 meters up provide good protection for getting into the cracks and corners. Place a few pieces, then head right across a wide crack (6" pro optional) onto good face holds and another crack. Use this to get up into the corner and protect again, heading up to reach a surprising splitter handcrack (2.5"). Take this up to a roof, going right under a roof, protecting with smaller cams. Go up and right of the roof into another right-facing corner, reaching a ledge after about 100'. Nut placements abound throughout, mostly for larger stoppers.
Head back almost into the gully to build a belay with a long cordalete on a flake on the wall beside you plus a few cams in a crack.
Walk/scramble off as if descending from the Berlin Wall (5.0) to the S/SW to the base of the WWW at its left side.
Climb up opposing features and up into a curving thin dihedral. A few nut or small cam placements about 5 meters up provide good protection for getting into the cracks and corners. Place a few pieces, then head right across a wide crack (6" pro optional) onto good face holds and another crack. Use this to get up into the corner and protect again, heading up to reach a surprising splitter handcrack (2.5"). Take this up to a roof, going right under a roof, protecting with smaller cams. Go up and right of the roof into another right-facing corner, reaching a ledge after about 100'. Nut placements abound throughout, mostly for larger stoppers.
Head back almost into the gully to build a belay with a long cordalete on a flake on the wall beside you plus a few cams in a crack.
Walk/scramble off as if descending from the Berlin Wall (5.0) to the S/SW to the base of the WWW at its left side.
Location [Suggest Change]
This climb is on the right hand side of Krishna, just left of the gully up into the Berlin Wall.
Protection [Suggest Change]
A handful of larger stoppers and even hexes if desired, to supplement a single run of cams from small to 3". One 6" piece (i.e. #6 C4 Camalot) optional may help the nerves for shorter leaders who can't reach the jug across the wide spot.
Be sure to take plenty of slings, as the climb dodges left and right to good jams and pro here and there.
Anchor up and over almost into the gully on a long cordalette and a few cams for pro.
Be sure to take plenty of slings, as the climb dodges left and right to good jams and pro here and there.
Anchor up and over almost into the gully on a long cordalette and a few cams for pro.
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