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Routes in Krishna & Serenity Spire

Adam's Arete S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Pool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Pool Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby's Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cesspool T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coug, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diving For Kipper Snacks T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eat My Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Higher Rites S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vishnu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: C. Moyer, 1987
Page Views: 74 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 5, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a surprisingly good climb with good rock. It needed a bit of cleaning and could use a little more, but overall it is in good shape. The splitter hand crack midway through was a pleasant surprise.

Climb up opposing features and up into a curving thin dihedral. A few nut or small cam placements about 5 meters up provide good protection for getting into the cracks and corners. Place a few pieces, then head right across a wide crack (6" pro optional) onto good face holds and another crack. Use this to get up into the corner and protect again, heading up to reach a surprising splitter handcrack (2.5"). Take this up to a roof, going right under a roof, protecting with smaller cams. Go up and right of the roof into another right-facing corner, reaching a ledge after about 100'. Nut placements abound throughout, mostly for larger stoppers.

Head back almost into the gully to build a belay with a long cordalete on a flake on the wall beside you plus a few cams in a crack.

Walk/scramble off as if descending from the Berlin Wall (5.0) to the S/SW to the base of the WWW at its left side.

Location

This climb is on the right hand side of Krishna, just left of the gully up into the Berlin Wall.

Protection

A handful of larger stoppers and even hexes if desired, to supplement a single run of cams from small to 3". One 6" piece (i.e. #6 C4 Camalot) optional may help the nerves for shorter leaders who can't reach the jug across the wide spot.

Be sure to take plenty of slings, as the climb dodges left and right to good jams and pro here and there.

Anchor up and over almost into the gully on a long cordalette and a few cams for pro.

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