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Routes in Rusty Wall

Finish What You Started T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maneater, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
O'Kelley's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slapshot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wangerbanger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Bill Russell & Mike Paul
Page Views: 5,097 total · 42/month
Shared By: Will S on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This offwidth crack through a roof is a classic exercise in bathanging and awkward lip enounters. If you don't fancy hanging upside down, it has gone with a more conventional horizontal squeeze approach and would be more easily protected that way with readily available cams (6 friend/camalot). The crux is turning the lip, and could go many ways depending on your imagination and/or size of body parts. Strenuous, unique, and whimsically absurd.

It is not located on the Rusty Wall proper, but closer to the Echo Cove area (see location section below for more detail).

Location

Drive to Echo-tee, turn left as for Echo Cove/Rusty Wall and keep your eyes on the base of the hillside to your left. About 100 yards past the large pullout on the right used for Big Moe, there is a one car pullout on the right. Park here. The route is easily spotted as a wide crack splitting a roof on a large boulder, about 200 yards from the road, at the base of the hillside opposite the entrance into to Echo Cove.

Protection

Protection on lead would be difficult for this if you bathang it, at least for the first part of the roof. The lip at the start is about 9", tapering deeper. You could likely push a 6 friend way up in there, but then cleaning or walking it would be a problem or entirely out of the question. Closer to the lip a constriction goes as narrow as 5", but on these bathang jobs you want to place the pro behind you so climbing around it would present it's own problems. If you own some Valley Giants, or are bold enough to solo out far enough to get a solid 6 friend, you're loving it. If you use a horizontal squeeze approach rather than a bathang, you should be able to place and slide a 6" cam. TR is easy enough to rig by tying off a tree way back and belaying from the top with the rope running through the crack. Slingshot TR would be problematic as the crack pinches off and is only about 1" where the rope would run.

Photos

C Miller   CA  
The Maneater on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=OjAld7o… Jun 8, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10+
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10+
This route is totally rad and would be a classic if it wasn't so close to the ground. Also the rock quality is good, but not great.

The protection until the lip is not stellar, though...I used a nearly tipped-out #6 Valley Giant (pretty close to a 6 C4), stuffed way up in there. Then, at the lip, an old #5 Camalot worked nicely. Past that a new 5 and 1 will get you to the top.

No need for bat-hanging, though, straight chimneying isn't too bad. The lip encounter is some of the weirdest climbing I've ever had the pleasure of doing. Sep 17, 2012
matthoffman Hoffman
Oakland, CA
matthoffman Hoffman   Oakland, CA
I can't imagine how to do this without a bat-hang. The hang works really well though, with a killer constriction near the lip. We set up a TR from a #2 sized crack behind a pretty solid flake and set a large nut in the crack to keep the rope from being eaten. Any inversion offwidth lover would be stoked on hitting this and then The Inquisition just a ways down the road. Feb 13, 2018
I'm calling this sandbagged. Feb 18, 2018

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