| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01998, -116.18453 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines & Tony Sartin, May 2007 |
| Page Views: | 1,572 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Cox on Nov 6, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start up a thin crack and short open book to gain a small ledge from which you can clip the first bolt. Face climb past a second bolt to reach a horizontal crack under a ceiling (TCUs and small cams here). Step right, then grab holds over the ceiling and pull up and left (gold Camalot) onto the face above. Climb the easier face and short hand crack to a big ledge. There is a 2 bolt rappel anchor just above the ledge. Rappel with one rope.
To set up a TR you'll want a cordalette or several double length slings.



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