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Routes in 3. Steak Sauce Boulder

Powderfinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steak Sauce T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: ffa jimmy surette 85
Page Views: 630 total, 6/month
Shared By: john strand on Nov 3, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The start is vicious for 15-20' then eases.Originally rated NH 5.12 it's more like V6 or so. Maybe in another lifetime I can do it clean.

Location

Right of Powderfinger, pretty obvious

Protection

Rp's and other small stuff, tree anchor

Photos

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Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I remember belaying Jim Surette on this when he was trying to free it back in the '80s. My fingers hurt just watching. This is a fierce little crack that is stupid skinny, jagged, and raw---looks like it fractured about last Tuesday. Eventually Jim had to find someone who could belay a full grade harder...LOL. Jan 19, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I would have to say yes, but I don't know who. It's fierce number with RP's for gear. Originally 12c Jan 11, 2012
has this seen a second free ascent??? Jan 10, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Around to the right. Ward's is I think 11a ? Mine was done in a fit of anti bolting temper and rated 8+ no bolts HA HA 10+ R Aug 8, 2011
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
Out at steak sauce today. Those two routes are still in good shape. Anyone know anything about the routes that John put up as well as the climbs that the Smith brothers did up there? There is an upper tier and I think they must be up there somewhere? Aug 8, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Good point. I remember trying Steak Sauce once but it was always hard to find someone motivated to walk out there and belay 15 feet of climbing. Nov 9, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Well jimmy rated it 12 c/d I'm pretty sure and that was 23 years ago.The first pitch of Mordor he called 12c, how many repeats has that had ? Nov 8, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
What's up with 13a on this? Has the consensus shifted that much? Nov 6, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
cool, what's it like... Nov 5, 2008