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Routes in Above and Beyond Wall

Ascent of a Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of Duty, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Do or Dive T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horse's Mouth, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leak, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ooooh Crack! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy's Polka S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Randy Kieliszewski, Steve Habovstak, 1993
Page Views: 49 total, 0/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The first 40 or so feet of Hari may ascend the best rock on the Above and Beyond Wall, via classic, steep Big Cottonwood quartzite face climbing -- the route would be three, maybe even four stars, if this section of rock were twice as long. Unfortunately, the rock becomes less interesting, both aesthetically and in terms of difficulty, for the remainder of the pitch.

The first half of the route is obvious, protected by two bolts supplemented by a cam or two. The latter half of the climb diagonals up and right, almost becoming a traverse near its top, to reach a two-bolt anchor. (The topo in the Ruckmans' guide shows the climb more straight-up than it actually is). Hari ends at the two-bolt anchor, but if you feel unsatisfied, try the bolted arĂȘte-feature just above, which is Kari (5.12), or head right to catch the headwall crack, which is the crag's namesake, Above and Beyond (5.11d).

Location

Hari begins about 30 feet left of The Leak, on the right (eastern) side of the cliff. Look for two bolts on a buttress of clean rock. Descend by rapping from the anchor.

Protection

QDs and cams (Ruckmans' guide suggests TCUs); nuts optional.

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