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Routes in Above and Beyond Wall

Ascent of a Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of Duty, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Do or Dive T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horse's Mouth, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leak, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ooooh Crack! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy's Polka S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Habovstak, Randy Kielizewski, Eric Klement 1993
Page Views: 78 total, 1/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Nov 16, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious, mostly bolted route right at the top of the approach trail. Look for the black streak going up a steep slab with a couple of roofs, the first bolt is 15 feet up but pretty easy to get to. Very fun climbing with a few hard moves at the first bolt and a crux pulling the second roof.

Protection

Mostly bolts. 5 bolts and a few small to medium camming devices or endure 20' runouts on easier terrain. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Second on what Jared said about the rocks for that first piece of gear are all gone. This makes getting to the first bolt much, much harder and fully runout. Its probably easy .11 but I didn't have the guts to go that way, opting for the left entry at 5.8 RR a-la the Coffin. If you want to go direct, adding a bolt would be warranted. Oct 28, 2013
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
Not too sure about this, but it seems a bunch of ledges are no longer there at the bottom of this climb. We tried to get on it but couldn't get to the first bolt as there were no features whatsoever.

Looking at the pictures, it seems all of the blocks below the first roof are gone.

Please correct me if I'm wrong as this was my first time at Above and Beyond Wall... But I think this climb has gotten a lot harder with the loss of these boulders. Jul 20, 2009
Craig,
Yea, the way things are going, maybe we should stick to the ol' tried and true. Also thanks for the cool write up of < Or Equal To. It's been almost 20 years! since we did that, so you are the much better source for beta and gear. Pin scars? Really?
James Nov 17, 2007
Hi Craig,
It could be The Leak, but that is in the book so you probably would have recognised it. Call Stevo for the ultimate beta on this area. He put up most of the routes up there. Nov 16, 2007