Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Habovstak, Randy Kieliszewski, Eric Clement, 1992
Page Views: 103 total · 1/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The Ruckmans give this route three out of three stars in their 1998 guide, the most of all the routes they describe on Above and Beyond Wall. It may be the route to do on the crag. The line turns three roofs in quick succession, has a short easy section, then presents one last roof to get to the chains, all very well protected. Take a second to spy the fixed gear before you start: a bolt and a pin just after the first roof, a bolt after the third roof, and two bolts protecting the last roof. Ruckmans' topo shows another pin after the second roof, but I didn't see it. If you go left at the last roof (after clipping the second to last bolt), you may use a somewhat wobbly loaf-size block, but it doesn't look like it is going anywhere.

Location

Do or Dive is about 150 feet left (west) of The Horse’s Mouth/Randy’s Polka, and maybe 100 feet left (west) of The Ascent of Man. You can’t miss it. Rap from chains.

Protection

QDs and cams; nuts optional.

Photos

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John said, "Ruckmans’ topo shows another pin after the second roof, but I didn’t see it." Which is true and kinda spooky. You can get in a couple of sizes of tcu's before you pull that second roof but they are reachy and kinda blind. But then I'm not very tall so maybe someone with longer arms wouldn't have trouble calling it .10d. Oct 28, 2013