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Routes in (k) The Shield

Control Freak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Enigma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gypsy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Megalomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tattoo S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 1,173 total, 10/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Sequential climbing leads over the initial bulge. After a good rest at the 5th bolt work through bad holds and a tricky crux. A quick shake leads to a powerful deadpoint crux. A few remaining thin moves lead to a no hands rest. A few more bolts of 11+ climbing lead to the anchor.

Location

Located just left of Megalomania. Two bolt lines right of Gypsy.

Protection

9 bolts to open shuts.

Photos

Nick Tunnicliffe
Costa Mesa
5.12c/d
Nick Tunnicliffe   Costa Mesa
5.12c/d
Just repeated this climb for the first time today. I remember thinking it was soft at the time of sending, but not I can confidently say I think it is more in line with 12c/d. Have definitely done 12c's that felt harder. Nov 9, 2015