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Routes in (k) The Shield

Control Freak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Enigma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gypsy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Megalomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tattoo S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 902 total, 8/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

A few reachy moves off the ground allow access to an ok rest. The middle of the route starts with a tricky crux and follows with sequential climbing. After an optional rest ledge out right continue up the face. Once an undercling is reached high on the route you are faced with the final crux. Sort out this final sequence and you are clipping the anchors.

Location

In the middle of the Shield just right of Control Freak.

Protection

12 bolts.

Photos

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Don't listen to that Nick dude, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Haha well actually he does, but the start is definitely harder. It sucks now haha. Dec 8, 2016
Nick Tunnicliffe
Costa Mesa
Nick Tunnicliffe   Costa Mesa
Warmed up on this climb today to find the jug at the start non-existent. Doesn't make it any harder than it was though Nov 9, 2015
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
The huge jug above and right of the first bolt is no more... It shifted when I was pulling up on it, and then once my belayer was safely out of the way, the whole thing came off with a couple of tugs. Sorry. It left a lower crimp rail, which makes that section is a bit harder. The new sequence is actually pretty good. The rest of the route, however, is completely covered in a layer of dirt... Nov 9, 2015