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Control Freak

5.13a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
California > Inland Empire > Riverside Area > Riverside Quarry > (k) The Shield

Description

Sequential climbing leads over the initial bulge. After a good rest at the 5th bolt work through bad holds and a tricky crux. A quick shake leads to a powerful deadpoint crux. A few remaining thin moves lead to a no hands rest. A few more bolts of 11+ climbing lead to the anchor.

Location

Located just left of Megalomania. Two bolt lines right of Gypsy.

Protection

9 bolts to open shuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stein just after the starting bulge on Control Freak.
[Hide Photo] Stein just after the starting bulge on Control Freak.
Stein gets ready for the first crux on Control Freak.
[Hide Photo] Stein gets ready for the first crux on Control Freak.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Tunnicliffe
Salt lake city
5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] Just repeated this climb for the first time today. I remember thinking it was soft at the time of sending, but not I can confidently say I think it is more in line with 12c/d. Have definitely done 12c's that felt harder. Nov 9, 2015