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Routes in Hole in the Wall

Apprentice, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Au Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dragonslayer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hole in the Wall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mentor, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Poacher, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Protege S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swiss Cheese T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Transgression T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warden, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 1,802 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a long route that diagonals through three sections of hard climbing. Rain kept us off the third crux but also revealed a good way to do this route at 5.11c: after the second crux, climb the easy hand-size crack to the right and then reach right to the anchors on Holey Joe; this flows well and allows the 5.11 climber to climb the brilliant first 80 feet of the route.

Protection

QDs, hand-size cams for the escape variation.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Good climbing until the top. At the top, the bolt line is really absurdly contrived as the natural line goes up and left to the handcrack and clipping the bolts from the natural line is rather difficult if not a little sketchy. I recommend bringing a hand-sized piece or two and some slings or long draws and following the natural line to the top. This would be a 3* route if one follows the handcrack at the top. Sep 11, 2017
The original rating assumes going straight up on the final panel, which is admittedly a bit contrived. It is possible to avoid that on both the left and right, reaching over to make the clips. Aug 14, 2017
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
 
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
 
Great route. Honestly felt a bit easier than Protege, and some other 11d's I've done, but I won't argue with the grade.

I went left on the final headwall and had to traverse back right to the arete. Looks like three different ways to pull the crux. Aug 12, 2017
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
Going left on the headwall has bigger holds but is much more awkward. After I fell going left, I went right, climbing the arĂȘte, and felt much more solid. Jul 1, 2014
DJ RYNO
chatfield lake ,co
 
DJ RYNO   chatfield lake ,co
 
Last weekend our group left one alpine draw near the top of this route on accident. If anyone happens to snag it, please send a personal message and we can get it back to the rightful owner. Thank you! What a fantastic route!! Sep 16, 2012
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Absolutely stellar route. Yhe rock is really neat, the bolting is excellent, and the climbing is fun as hell. Pretty long route, so if you have a 60, keep an eye on the end when you are lowering/rapping. I wouldn't recommend a 50 (not sure if anybody even still uses a 50 these days). Man, what a fun route - do it! Jul 23, 2012
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
I disagree - stay left on the headwall at the top. It's a little steep, but the holds are better than you'd expect, and it flows really well.

Really enjoyed this climb. Sep 19, 2010
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
I agree. This route is really amazing. A little lichen cleaning would make it even more enjoyable. I got sucked into going left on good holds at the upper headwall and took a ride. Staying on or near the arete made more sense in the end. Jun 1, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11d
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11d
You wouldn't know it from the base, but this might be one of the top 10 routes at Devil's Head. Superb rock, amazing movement, and great position. Good rest in between the cruxes keep the climbing easy for the grade. Get on it! Aug 9, 2009

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