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Routes in Hole in the Wall

Apprentice, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Au Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dragonslayer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hole in the Wall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mentor, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Poacher, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Protege S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swiss Cheese T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Transgression T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warden, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 120 total · 1/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

A pretty good trad pitch whose semi-vegetated nature indicates it doesn't get much traffic. Despite what the guidebook might say, it's actually pretty well protected. It follows a series of cracks; at the top there are several to choose from and it wasn't clear to me which belonged to the route proper.

Climb continuously challenging moves for about 25'; this is the crux and has good gear in a variety of sizes, but a couple of the placements may not be straightforward. Continue more easily up the most obvious line on lower angle ground for another 25' until the angle steepens and you encounter a tricky move. Pull past this and go up another 10' to the start of another hard section; at this point there three parallel, vertical cracks within a span of about 8' the center of which seemed to be the most obvious way but on close inspection seemed to be unduly difficult, so I took the right one. Anchors soon followed. Rap 100' to the ground -- if you are cleaning the route on rap, a 60m cord barely makes it.

Location

Double nuts to #3 Camalot. I placed two #2 Camalot sized pieces in the crux pods near the bottom.

Protection

On the same wall as The Apprentice, but at the other (upper/north) end, HITW starts about 10' right of the chimney formed by the end of the wall, at a discontinuous, poddy, finger crack.

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slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Good route with 3 interesting sections. Bottom crux has good gear, as noted above. Middle crux was brief and not difficult. Top crux felt like maybe the hardest. I bear hugged the 2 cracks at the top which made for great climbing with cracks, huecos, underclings, etc. on good steep rock. Anchor bolts are old rusty coldshuts that are far apart and at different elevations, which makes cleaning kind of awkward. Aug 29, 2011

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