Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Magill
Page Views: 1,449 total · 7/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details


Thin crimping and technical foot work up a dead vertical wall. This route is safe, but the insecure moves and stances give it a spooky feel.The hardest climbing is in the first 35 feet, after which the climbing drops into the 10+ to 11- range. Fun all the way to the anchors.

To find Protege, look at the north-facing wall across from the red tower. The wall breaks into two distinct panels. The left panel is full of cracks and offers many trad climbs, as well as a couple of sport routes. The right panel is very compact and has four sport routes. Protege is the leftmost of these four routes.


14 bolts.


Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
Climbed like Eldo. I thought I was on Prince of Darkness or something. Jul 31, 2007
desbien   seattle,wa
Great route. 11d. Nov 4, 2007
chatfield lake ,co
DJ RYNO   chatfield lake ,co
Sickness, do it!!!! Sep 18, 2009
Anchor upgraded 2011 courtesy of the ASCA, please show them your support. Jul 25, 2011
Kevin Neilson
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Super route. It felt a little easier than a typical Devil's Head 11d. This wall only gets sun at the end of the day. Jul 30, 2011

Great climbing on this one. A bit more sustained through the first half compared to the 3 routes to the right. The description of the protection seemed accurate to me - it felt kind of committing, despite being fairly well bolted. Maybe due having a bit of a pump during the last part of the crux, with a bit of a run (albeit fairly easy) to the next bolt. Jul 3, 2012
Head Crew notes:

Boomer (aka Rich Magill) was infamous for wandering off (with Burwick), sending a bunch of routes, then showing up after we were cooked from cleaning, drilling, and working moves, to grab the FA. This one, and "The Poacher" next door, are a tribute to his Zook Mastery.

Hail Boomer! Sep 15, 2012
All protection bolt hangers were upgraded yesterday. Sep 7, 2016
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
Stellar. Stays on you for the first 5 bolts, and then finishes as a super fun jug haul. Jun 19, 2017
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
The climbing on this was decent, but the line is contrived and forced one to climb up the most difficult sections of rock down low with an easy ramp never more than two moves away. The top protected surprisingly well with gear. Sep 11, 2017