Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Tom Beck,1980
Page Views: 354 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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A fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of Dave's Deviation if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think that’s a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.

Start on a face between My Pink Half of the Drainpipe and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. There’s a blocky section just past this with one sort of loose block, but it’s easy climbing. The crack continues up, thinning towards the top where it merges with the dihedral. A two bolt anchor/rap station is on the left.


Located on the Upper Northeast Buttress, which may not be easy to locate if you’re not familiar with the area. From El Whampo continue scrambling up and left around blocky ledges until you find a steep gully/chimney. You may want to rope up here, there’s some awkward moves getting up.

Once the gully levels out you should see obvious routes to your right, the roof of My Pink Half of the Drainpipe right above you. Last Grapes starts between My Pink Half and a right-facing dihedral on your left.


Medium to small gear, there’s placements to 2” but you can get away with smaller.


Yea fun. I felt bad standing on the little tree though, no way around it. The bolted belay on the left is easy to miss. I stayed right and belayed off a slung tree, then continued on easy ground to the top.

The right facing dihedral ever been freed? Jun 19, 2014
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
pay attention to the approach here! I didn't. Vogel's topo is confusing but his picture is right on. Approach is vi El Whampo like description here says. Don't do this climb unless you have a specific tick list in mind at IDY. That being said it was fun but unfortunately will not clean up since doesn't get enough traffic. Oct 9, 2016