All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suicid… > Tahquitz Rock > (a) Northeast But… > Upper Northeast Buttress
Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
Routes in Upper Northeast Buttress
|Birdman T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Bitchen Lichen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Last Grapes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Like'n to Lichen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|My Pink Half of the Drainpipe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|North East Rib T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Dave Evans and Tom Beck,1980|
|Page Views:||270 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionA fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of Dave's Deviation if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think thats a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.
Start on a face between My Pink Half of the Drainpipe and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. Theres a blocky section just past this with one sort of loose block, but its easy climbing. The crack continues up, thinning towards the top where it merges with the dihedral. A two bolt anchor/rap station is on the left.
LocationLocated on the Upper Northeast Buttress, which may not be easy to locate if youre not familiar with the area. From El Whampo continue scrambling up and left around blocky ledges until you find a steep gully/chimney. You may want to rope up here, theres some awkward moves getting up.
Once the gully levels out you should see obvious routes to your right, the roof of My Pink Half of the Drainpipe right above you. Last Grapes starts between My Pink Half and a right-facing dihedral on your left.